Rave New World—Tracing Club Culture’s Resurgent Cool
Where all-out revivals are concerned, 2014 is surely the province of psychedelia, but club culture comes in a close and competitive second. Miley Cyrus and Jeremy Scott dove headlong into the candy-colored rave sensibilities of the ’90s, but for others—Marc by Marc Jacobs’ Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley included—it was British house and Tony Wilson’s Madchester cadre that stoked the imagination. Off the catwalks, the custodians of all things after-hours are enjoying a moment, too, from EDM über-DJs, like Tiësto and Diplo, to the spiritual heirs of downtown New York’s storied club scene, like Ladyfag.
See below for 14 takes on the rave revival.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com1/14The Kandi Shop
Jeremy Scott s eponymous collections regularly draw on ravewear, from Day-Glo palettes to cheeky slogan tees and cartoonish prints. While the genesis of Scott s Spring romp may have been more Woodstock than Limelight, Miley Cyrus kandi-inspired accessories lent the affair a clubby feel that stopped just short of pacifiers.
Photos: Courtesy of Carlton Books2/14Book Party
Chelsea Louise Berlin s Rave Art won t hit bookstores until the spring, but with its exhaustive look at the vivid graphic culture of the club scene—fliers, tickets, membership cards, etc.—it s sure to top more than a few holiday wish lists.
Photo: Michele Morosi / Indigitalimages.com3/14Cool Kids Club
"Hard-core idealism" was the order of the day at Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier s sophomore outing for MBMJ. The duo channeled Brit rave culture, from oversize graphic tees and parkas to the micro-bun mohawks whipped up by Guido Palau. The collection boasted plenty of subcultural cred, too, thanks to latex dresses and skirts from East End fetish mainstay House of Harlot.
Photo: Steve Eichner / Getty Images4/14Party Monster
Michael Alig (above, far left), infamous 90s New York club kid, convicted killer, and subject of the less-than-lauded 2003 Macaulay Culkin flick
Party Monster, was released from prison in May. And he s wasted no time in his six months as a free man: He s been spotted at clubs like Pacha, filmed 63 episodes of his YouTube talk show, and tweeted about his desire to find gallery representation for his artwork. The question is: Does the fact that he robbed, killed, and dismembered a man help or hurt his chances?
Photos: Hulton Archive / Getty Images; Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com5/14All Dolled Up
Performance artist and London underground club icon Leigh Bowery has served as a touchstone for Junya Watanabe s collections in the past. For Spring, the designer channeled the primary colors, PVC, and Perspex of Bowery s avant-garde ensembles.
