What Exactly Is Raw Denim and How Do You Shop for It?
The rigidity of a pair of jeans is one of those differentiating factors that separate denim die-hards from the rest. Of course, almost nothing can beat a great pair of raw denim jeans for those who live for the stiff and structured look. But there are several distinctions in raw denim that make it entirely unique from other styles crafted from 100% cotton. Here to explain are Levi’s director of design innovation, Una Murphy, and Citizens of Humanity’s creative director, Marianne McDonald.
What is raw denim, and how does it differ from other types of denim?
“Raw denim is denim that is unwashed in garment form,” Murphy tells Vogue. “It has a clean look and a dark indigo color.” According to McDonald, “All denim starts as raw denim. Technically speaking, once it hits water, it is no longer considered raw.” During the raw denim washing process known as blooming, as McDonald explains, different treatments such as hand sanding, laser technology, sponge potassium, and ozone bring out the natural qualities of the fabric that raw denim’s dark exterior otherwise hides.
There are different types of raw denim, too, Murphy says. “Selvedge denim, the original raw denim, is woven on vintage shuttle looms with a woven edge,” she tells Vogue. “Levi’s selvedge is traditionally woven with a redline, and the straight edge helps to give the famous anti-fit look.” This type of raw denim is known to shrink after washing since it’s never touched water. So, expect a pair to go down one to two sizes.
There is also sanforized, or pre-shrunk raw denim, which is finished at the denim mill to create a fit similar to other denim. During this process, raw denim becomes exposed to water or steam, which means the “raw” classification is technically compromised. However, it’s a standard process for streamlining the fit of raw denim and with way less water use.
“The original 501® proprietary shrink-to-fit fabric has a very distinguished look and fabric characteristics due to the unique shrinkage and construction,” Murphy says. She adds, “Most jeans that are found in stores today have gone through some kind of pre-washing process to soften the fabric and reduce shrinkage post-wear and wash.”
How does raw denim fit versus other types of denim?
Describing raw denim as “every denim purist’s go-to for jeans,” McDonald says raw denim is often referred to as rigid to denote the material’s stiff and unyielding texture. “Construction of a raw jean is the same as one that receives a wash. Each is rife with meticulous attention to detail, including stitch color, thread count, bar tacks, and specific J-stitching at the fly that signify durability and the brand’s DNA.”
In addition, some pairs can include stretch—perfect for easing into raw denim if you’re new to the game. “Typically, those who love raw denim are drawn to denim being in its most authentic form, which is entirely non-stretch,” McDonald explains. “When a jean is raw and has stretch, usually the designer has a modernist leaning and understands the comfort that comes from some stretch in a pair of jeans. With today’s technology, raw stretch jeans can look incredible on and harness fabric innovations that didn’t exist previously.”
How long does it take to break in raw denim?
Similar to other rigid cotton pairs of jeans, raw denim requires some breaking in due to the fabric’s inherent stiffness. McDonald says it typically takes several months of regular wear to break in a raw pair of jeans. “What starts out stiff, eventually takes on the shape and movement wear patterns from the owner,” the Citizens of Humanity’s creative director tells Vogue.