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While not new, the infamous-yet-useful “curl pattern type” chart isn’t without controversy. Coined by Oprah’s personal hairstylist in the ’90s, Andre Walker, his chart is encompassed by four categories (1 to 4) each with subcategories (A to C).
Understanding your hair texture and needs isn’t a problem, but grading hair creates a hierarchy, making one type more desirable then the other. It also leaves out other important factors ranging from porosity, length, heat/chemical damage, and having a mix of hair types.
Despite its roots, figuring out where your hair lies on the spectrum is a useful consumer tool. As the industry has evolved, countless products and techniques have emerged, specifically for the type 4A-C hair category—a plus for natural hair. Below, we explore the 4A hair category and all of its unique attributes.
What Is 4A hair?
According to Aveda’s global artistic director of texture, Renée Gadar, 4A hair differs from 4B and 4C hair because it usually has a smoother cuticle layer, reflects more shine, and has more consistency yielding defined coils. “For example, 4C hair is in the coil category, as opposed to the curl category that 3C exists in,” she explains. “The difference in the pattern is its tightness or the reduced diameter of the curl or bend of the hair aka the coils being tighter.”
Which leads us to the importance of nomenclature: Terms like curly, coily, and kinky are not interchangeable. “Generally, when we are using the term coily it refers to a tight curl, while the term curly usually reflects anything from a larger curl to a medium curl,” explains Matrix global artistic director, Michelle O’Connor. “Curly can be anything from the 3A–C categories. Lastly, I don’t love using the word kinky to describe hair, but overall, these adjectives are usually referring to how small or large a curl is.”
How to know if you have 4A hair texture
Like other hair types, 4A hair comes in a variety of different textures. “A strand of 4A hair can be as thin as a spider web, or as thick as dental floss. You can easily decipher how fine or coarse hair is by how big individual strands are,” explains O’Connor.
But, a caveat. it’s definitely possible (and very common) to have a mix of 4A–C curls. Hairstory network stylist and curl expert April Kayganich has even seen clients with type 4 hair with with type 2 and 3 curls blended in. “I am not the biggest fan of the curl typing system because of this reason; curly haired people can have multiple curl patterns and multiple textures on their head. This makes it hard for people to figure out exactly where they fall on the chart,” she explains.
How to take care of 4A hair
According to Gadar, 4A types should think about cleansing in two ways, shampooing and co-washing. “Over-shampooing can be too stripping. On this texture, sebum takes longer to travel down the hair strand, so putting distance between shampoo’s help and a good way to buy yourself some time is with a co-wash,” she explains.
Overall, 4A hair tends to be naturally drier, so it is really important to take steps to hydrate the hair. “Products like leave-in conditioners or curl revivers are a good way to get moisture in the hair. Also, not waiting too long in between hair washing,” adds O’Connor.
The porosity of your hair also influences how your hair will respond to certain products. “The porosity of hair is determined by how your hair absorbs and retains moisture,” explains celebrity hair stylist, Ursula Stephen. “[Often] people with textured hair need more moisture.” She recommends products like Shea Moisture’s Amla Oil Bond Repair Masque (infused with amla oil, restorative HydroPlex infusion, aminoBlend, and fair-trade shea butter) that are moisturizing and damage repairing too.
How to grow longer 4A hair
It’s no secret that regardless of hair type, the first step to healthy hair is a healthy scalp. “A lot of people don’t realize the scalp is like the soil of your hair,” explains O’Connor. “The foundation must be healthy for things to grow. There are a lot of products on the market that aid in the hydration of the scalp.”
O’Connor recommends the Food for Soft collection which has hyaluronic to help keep the scalp’s moisture levels balanced. “Also, for length retention make sure the ends of your hair are healthy and hydrated. It is not worth holding on to ends that are splitting or dry because that will inhibit hair growth,” she explains.
How to style 4A hair
Gadar is a proponent of styling your hair however you want, but encourages 4A textures to switch it up occasionally too. “Think, not always straight or stretched, not always in braids, not always a wash and go,” she explains.
“Protective styles with natural hair is always a plus though,” she adds. “But, always be mindful of your scalp and the products you are leaving on the hair for extended periods of time to keep the ‘protective’ in your protective styles.”
If you plan on heat styling your hair, make sure to always use a heat protectant. Kayganich likes to use a blow dry cream, like Hairstory Dressed Up, or if flat iron or curling with an iron, she prefers an aerosol heat protectant. And, be extra careful with your tools settings.
“Fine hair can have their hot tool set at 365 degrees max; medium to coarse textures should set it no higher than 380 degrees,” she warns. “At night, I suggest protecting your hair with a silk scarf or bonnet to make sure the hair is in the best condition when you’re styling.”
Overall, O’Connor concluded by saying that 4A hair is a beautiful type of hair, but it may take some extra care. “It is important to take your time in caring for your curls, keeping them hydrated and moisturized is the most vital advice I can give.”