I’m driving down a sleepy country road in Martinborough on a sunny summer afternoon in pursuit of wine. Having read about a natural winemaker who produces a sparkling Pinot Noir and Riesling blend, I’m thrilled to discover the cellar door is marked as open on my phone. Only thing is, it’s closed. “Ah mate, I wasn’t planning on it today I’m out on the tractor,” the man responds when I ring to inquire if they’re open for walk-in tastings. He asks if I’m around tomorrow morning (I’m not), he apologizes, and we say goodbye. And that, dear reader, is an interaction my husband (a New Zealand citizen) characterizes as “so kiwi.” A contact number that dials straight to the winemaker’s cell phone—who is, at present, working on his tractor out in the vineyard. The instant familiarity of it all is so endearing and humorous that I can’t help but track down a bottle in a local shop and enjoy it with dinner that evening. This is why you travel to New Zealand. Not just for the exceptional wines, but for these supremely authentic interactions that are born from an unfailing dedication to the land. (I have no doubt if I had in fact been available the next morning, my anecdote here would be much more layered.)
You also come to New Zealand wine country for the legendary landscapes, which are as impossibly breathtaking as you always imagined they would be. On a recent monthlong sojourn roadtripping around the various wine regions in the country, I drove an ATV quad bike into a hillside sheep paddock, through a scenic riverbank, and out onto a black sand beach. I hopped into a four-wheel-vehicle at 10 p.m. to search for the elusive kiwi bird, steering into thick bush and spotting a total of three. I packed a wine lunch and hiked to a remote, private coastline for the most staggeringly picturesque picnic I will likely ever have. And I sped along a lakeside trail on a mountain bike, cycling across suspension bridges and beside craggy bluffs. This is what to expect when you come to New Zealand wine country. A taste of adventure, wine, and the good life.
Ahead, six destinations to add to your itinerary, moving from north to south.
Northland
Back in 1819, New Zealand s very first vines were planted in the Bay of Islands in the Northland region. Despite the history, there’s still far less awareness of Northland as a wine hub than destinations such as Marlborough or Central Otago. In addition to the being the oldest, it’s also the warmest growing region. “This makes it uniquely suited to ripening a wide range of grape varieties,” Peter Jones says, who is both the director for The Landing and the chairman of Northland Winegrowers. “Warm spring temperatures, hot dry summers, and calm autumn days mean fruit ripens early, creating full-bodied, rich and generous wines.” You’ll be enjoying Chardonnay, Syrah, and Pinot Gris during your visit (they’re the best-known grapes up here), but plenty others are produced as well. “The maritime influence is especially noticeable in the Bay of Islands, with afternoon sea breezes moderating the temperatures and keeping the vines healthy.”
For foreigners arriving to New Zealand for the first time, an evening or two in The Landing’s ultra-slick and sustainable Auckland property, Hotel Britomart helps one ease into the new time zone. From there, The Landing’s team can zip you up to the Purerua Peninsula for the next leg of your adventure at one of their residences and vineyard. This part of the country resembles what most first-timers probably imagine New Zealand looks like—rolling farmland dotted with white sheep that overlooks a glistening ocean’s edge—saturation levels dialed all the way up.
The Landing’s cellar door lunch is a supremely atmospheric experience, beginning with a private boat ride across the Bay of Islands, followed by a scenic vineyard tour, and concluding with a wine tasting and chef-prepared lunch. Other local wineries where you can pop in for a cellar door tasting and lunch include Marsden Estate (in Kerikeri), Omata Estate (in Russell) and Karikari Estate (in Doubtless Bay), Jones shares. And when you’re not washing down a catch of the day with an aromatic Viognier, dedicate an afternoon to the nearby Waitangi Treaty Grounds to immerse in Māori culture with indigenous guides.
Waiheke Island
This island off the coast of Auckland has been called the Hamptons of New Zealand for its high-end, low-key vibe. “It’s just a short ferry ride away,” Cameron Douglas says, who is currently New Zealand’s only master sommelier. There are around 40 wineries on Waiheke Island, with the highest being Batch Winery, which has sweeping views from the Coromandel all the way to Auckland. “Fresh is best here,” Douglas says, pointing to freshly shucked oysters and seafood pastas as must-order dishes for visitors (paired with local dry white wines, of course).
Though the island originally had a “hippie hangout” kind of ambience, in the last decade it’s experienced a shift into the luxury sector, attracting the likes of Bill Gates, Madonna, and Beyoncé. Book one of just three rooms at The Oyster Inn, a boutique property founded by Louis Vuitton’s former U.K. communications director. Here you can savor its namesake mollusks from the property’s beachside bistro overlooking the bay. Activities aside from tasting and dining include coastal walks, birdwatching, and a scenic stroll to Sculpture on the Gulf (an outdoor art exhibition held every two years).
Hawke s Bay
If you’re low on vitamin D, a jaunt to Hawke’s Bay should straighten that out. (The region sees over 2,000 hours of sunshine each year, a fact its residents are more than pleased to share with you upon arrival on what is, most likely, a very sunny day). Wine has been an industry here since 1851 and it is now the second largest wine region in all of New Zealand. “These warm and sunny summers mean grapes can ripen and develop delicious bright fruit flavors,” Alina Bondarchuk says, who is the sommelier at Rosewood Cape Kidnappers. The climate is well-suited for rich Bordeaux varieties as well as peppery Syrahs and Chardonnays with minerality. “We also have a large number of varieties grown here, fantastic examples of Barbera, Viognier, Pinot Gris and even Zinfandel,” Bondarchuk notes, adding that the rosés in the area are also really fun. (“Askerne Fleurty is definitely worth mentioning.”)
Rosewood Cape Kidnappers is located just to the east of wine country, perched on a spectacular 6,000-acre peninsula that doubles as a wildlife sanctuary (don’t miss the nighttime tour where you just might spot an ellusive kiwi). The championship golf course is nothing short of bucket list worthy, and on-property excursions like a tour of the working sheep and beef farm deliver a strong sense of place. When you’re ready for your first pour of the day, Bondarchuk suggests both a winery bike tour and guided wine tours. “Gordon Russell used to be a winemaker for Esk Valley and is a local legend [and guide] with over 30 years in the industry, he is the best you can ask for.”
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If you’re stitching together your own itinerary, Bondarchuk points to Craggy Range, Te Mata, and Church Road as the region’s best known, especially on the international market. Some of her favorite hidden gems include De la Terre, Clearview, and Brookfields. “I love what De la Terre does, they are really small, family-owned, and very hands-on,” she says. Break up your tastings with a stop in the charming town of Napier, which is lined with well-preserved Art Deco buildings that were constructed after a devastating earthquake in 1931. This area is also a great place to grow crops and is known for its production of produce like apples and pears—with plenty of fruit stands and farmers markets for picking up mid-afternoon snacks.
Marlborough
Without a doubt, Marlborough put New Zealand wine on the map with its distinct style of Sauvignon Blanc fermented in stainless-steel tanks. (You’d be far from alone if this grassy, acidic style was your first introduction to New Zealand wines.) Around two thirds of the entire nation’s wine production is based here, which in addition to its signature grape, also includes rising varieties such as Pinot Noir. The climate is cool, dry, and sunny, with low rainfall and fertile soil. The subregions are made up of the Southern Valleys, Wairau Valley, and Awatere Valley with 168 wineries dotted throughout.
Arriving here by plane is easy (the regional Blenheim airport is conveniently close to vineyards). But if you prefer the scenic route, take the Interislander Ferry from Wellington over to Picton, gliding between islands through truly stunning scenery. (Just pray the water isn’t choppy that day!) Some of the best-known wineries that helped to establish Marlborough’s reputation include Cloudy Bay, Brancott Estate, and Wairau River Wines (among several others). If you’re in search of new and emerging expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, head for wineries like Deep Down Wines. These organic wines by Clive Dougall and Peter Lorimer are small batch, wild ferment, single vineyard and B Corp certified. They re also really good!
Wineries aside, the region is also home to the Marlborough Sounds, which are best experienced via Cloudy Bay’s Sip Sail Away tour (private wine tasting on a 54-foot private yacht sounds appealing, no?). Also be sure to get your hands on some green-lipped mussels, they’re a New Zealand favorite and are especially tasty in this area. (Frank’s Oyster Bay Eatery is a solid spot for this.) And if you need a place to rest your head between tastings, sailings, and beyond, a room at Bay of Many Coves set in the heart of Queen Charlotte Sound is quintessential New Zealand ‘accom.’
Wairarapa
A quick and utterly beautiful drive (or train ride) from Wellington, Wairarapa is easy enough for a day trip, but that would be a shame as this region warrants a few days on its own. A combination of well-draining soils and mild temperatures throughout the year make this an ideal destination for growing grapes. “It’s very similar to Burgundy, which drives the style of the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays toward that classic, old world character,” Nicolas Simonucci of Wharekauhau Country Estate says. The biggest names around including Ata Rangi, Dry River, Martinborough Vineyard, and Escarpment, he shares. If you’re after those hidden gem wineries with an average of just 5,000 bottles of total production, Simonucci says to go for Devotus and Groves.
The Martinborough subregion of Wairarapa (there are three in total) is a charming colonial village with views of vineyards in every direction. Simonucci suggests dropping in to The Runholder (from the same owners as Wharekauhau) “for sweeping views of the Martinborough Terrace while enjoying tastings from two pioneering Martinborough wineries, Te Kairanga and Martinborough Vineyard." If you re traveling with a group, breeze from vineyard to vineyard around the township of Martinborough in a photogenic quadri-cycle.
There’s no better home base for a trip to Wairarapa wine country than Wharekauhau Country Estate in peaceful Palliser Bay. This Relais Chateaux property combines the farm stay setting with all the bells and whistles of a star-studded luxury lodge secluded in nature. (A brief example: to reach the property, one ascends a narrow dirt road, winding past cliffs that drop sharply down to a black sand beach, culminating atop a dramatic, sheep-peppered vista.) On-property activities make excellent use of the surrounding landscape, from ATV quad biking to beach fishing. “Wharekauhau Country Estate also offers the most unique, deep, incredible experience with their Soil Barrel Cellar Passion tour,” Simonucci says. This includes a walk and taste through vineyards, drawing samples straight from the barrel to taste, and a trip into a private cellar to sample older vintages from the region.
Central Otago
One of the first things you’ll notice when you arrive to Otago on the South Island is The Remarkables—a towering saw-toothed mountain range along the edge of Lake Wakatipu that is one of few in the world that runs directly north to south. These dramatic peaks set a strong tone for a wine country getaway in Central Otago, which is prized for its award-winning wines. “Pinot Noir is by far the most well-known variety here,” Ilias Hamzaoui says, who is the restaurant bar manager at Rosewood Matakauri. There are a number of reasons why grapes grow so well in Central Otago, from the continental climate to the well-draining schist-based soils. “Elevation also plays a key role, as the higher-altitude vineyards maintain freshness in the wines,” he says.
If you’re looking for a standout winery in the region, Hamzaoui points to Felton Road. “It’s often regarded as a benchmark for Central Otago Pinot Noir, particularly thanks to its biodynamic farming practices and exceptional single-vineyard wines.” He also suggests Mt Difficulty in the Bannockburn subregion (“another major player”) and Gibbston Valley Winery as a key figure in shaping the region’s reputation. “In terms of emerging talent, Burn Cottage is one to watch—its biodynamic approach and complex Pinot Noirs are drawing significant attention,” Hamzaoui says, adding that Misha’s Vineyard is another exciting producer that’s known for their Pinot Noirs and aromatic whites. For a family-owned organic winery that owns vineyards in both Central Otago and Burgundy, stop in for a tasting at Domaine Thomson. (Fun wine fact: These two regions are often compared as they are close in latitude, about two degrees apart.)
Because of Central Otago’s proximity to Queenstown (the so-called adventure capital of the world’), naturally, there are about a million things to do when you’re not wine tasting. From cycling the gorgeous Lake Dunstan Trail to taking a ride on the TSS Earnslaw, a 1912 Edwardian twin screw streamer that carries passenger down Lake Wakatipu. If you’re a history buff, don’t miss preserved mining towns like Arrowtown and Cardrona to experience the legacy of the 1860s Otago gold rush. And for accommodations, in addition to Rosewood Matakauri with its covetable lakeside real estate, the villas at the Gibbston Valley Lodge Spa are situated among the vineyards, solidifying that authentic kiwi wine country experience.
