Say the words Lake Como to most travelers, and a seductive series of images are likely to scroll across the mind’s eye: breathtaking scenery of mountains plunging into the lake’s water, glamorous Baroque villas surrounded by sprawling formal gardens, charming historical towns, and possibly even a George Clooney sighting. So what if I were to tell you that there was another great lake a few hours down the road offering all the same experiences—well, except George Clooney—with a fraction of the tourists and a more relaxed vibe? That would be Lake Garda, Como’s less flashy sister, which has been quietly evolving to become more than a destination predominantly loved by Europeans.
Enter Cape of Senses, which debuted last summer as the area’s newest—and one of its most spectacular—year-round spa hideaways. Set among the rolling hills above the picture postcard town of Torri del Benaco (make sure to borrow one of the hotel’s bicycles or its electric Fiat 500 to pay a visit to the harbor with its charming restaurants and shops), this resort is all about the view—and what a view it is.
On the bright spring morning I arrived, the jagged topography of the mountains on the other side of the lake stretched as far as the eye can see, with wisps of cloud swirling above them and Garda’s glittering waters below. At night, the lights on the opposite shore begin to twinkle gently as the property’s gardens were tastefully lit up for an additional touch of drama. And the entire thing is framed by the hotel itself, a sleek architectural marvel designed by Hugo and Alessia Demetz of the locally-based DemetzArch that compliments the surrounding landscapes while never overpowering them.
This respect for the hotel’s natural environment can be chalked up to the family behind it—brothers Christian and Johannes Margesin, and their father Johann—who have been running the similarly wellness-focused resort Alpiana in the hills of South Tyrol for half a century. While they’d always dreamed of opening a property on the lakes, it wasn’t until discovering this site back in 2018 (at the time, it was a neglected olive grove) that they realized they’d found their perfect spot, and spent the next five years bringing their vision meticulously to life.
Overall, there’s a feeling of elegant simplicity, with the pared-back design of the suites (every one of the 55 guestrooms here is a suite, it turns out) seeming almost to become one with the natural surroundings. The vibe is minimal—plush taupe sofas and beds outfitted in crisp white linens might be accented with cushions in a dusty orange, or a towering cheese plant, or a contemporary art accent—but also, firmly comfortable. So comfortable, in fact, that you might be tempted to spend all day in them, but thankfully, the property has been carefully designed to constantly lure you back to the great outdoors. (There’s also a vast range of activities on offer for those planning a longer stay, many of which turn the spotlight to local makers working in a similar mode to the team at Cape of Senses, such as tours of local oil mills and wineries.)
Top marks for the food too, which—under the aegis of executive chef Francesco Pavan—can be found across two restaurants: the leisurely poolside Osteria La Pergola, which serves light Italian classics for tucking into while taking a brief sojourn from your sunlounger, and Restaurant Al Tramonto, which sits on the property’s top floor and offers innovative spins on Mediterranean cuisine that highlights the wonders of the kitchen’s firmly local, seasonal produce. Dishes span everything from the decadent—a delectably rich poached egg lavished with cheese sauce and truffle, or a slow-cooked duck leg in a red wine syrup and blackberry jus—to light and bright plates of artfully arranged endive salads and restorative ribollita. If you’re feeling particularly decadent after a long day of restoring the mind, body, and soul? The in-house mixologists will concoct a delicious herb-infused spritz.
But all of this leads up to one thing, and one thing only: the property’s seriously impressive, 21,000-square-foot Senses Spa. You’ll find all the classic spa facilities here, naturally—three saunas and steam rooms, a state-of-the-art fitness center, three pools, and a jacuzzi—but there’s a notable emphasis on bringing the outside in, and the inside out. From the moment you step inside the spa complex, and take your first deep breath of the lavender and thyme-infused air, a sense of calmness descends; in place of the elaborate bells and whistles of many brand-new spa offerings, here, it’s all about simplicity. You can tuck yourself into a cozy corner of one of the various relaxation areas, or the lounge-like spa library—all designed in sleek, soothing neutrals—or delve into the selection of fresh herbal teas and jars of nuts and dried fruit, but it’s always the views that take center stage, thanks to the sweeping walls of glass that line one side of every room. (Even from inside the wet rooms, the views are the thing.)
The signature treatment here is the Senses Pinda: a two-hour full-body extravaganza that includes a hot pads and wild herb ritual, before diving into a massage that uses a mixture of citrus, rosemary, and basil essential oils, followed by a nourishing facial using flower extracts and Macadamia oil. Really, though, every treatment—and the spa menu runs the full gamut from East to West—is executed to the highest degree, with the help of herb-infused products by MEI. (MEI stands for “migliori erbe Italiani,” and quite literally translates as “best Italian herbs.”)
Finally, once you’ve soaked and scrubbed and sauna-d yourself out, you can make the most of the spa’s thoughtful approach to indoor-outdoor design by wandering through the olive groves and stationing yourself on one of the cabana-like outdoor lounge areas. Don’t forget the daily lineup of free wellness activities, either, which include fitness classes, guided meditations, and breathwork sessions. But the one you really shouldn’t miss? Yoga classes in the morning (or occasionally at nightfall) at the hotel’s outdoor spa platform, situated under a fragrant cluster of olive and lemon trees and with unparalleled views over the lake. Cape of Senses may be just 40 minutes from the city center of Verona, but it’s a blissful, bucolic paradise that somehow feels like a whole other world.
