While the phrase caveman skin care may feel like an oxymoron—after all, if a caveman didn’t have a wheel, he certainly wasn’t thinking about salmon-sperm facials—the idea behind the trend is eternal. When TikTok creator Tia Zakher announced to her followers she was no longer washing her face in the hopes of repairing a broken skin barrier, the viral moment caused many to wonder about its legitimacy (Zakher confirmed with People that this is no hoax—she did indeed go weeks without touching a face cleanser) and if it would actually work.
Going the caveman skin-care route, to those in the know, means that one has completely stopped doing their skin routine. Yes: no sunscreen, no serums, no cleanser…not even a little spritz of water. Caveman epiphany: Most experts do not recommend this approach to restore your skin barrier—especially when it comes to skipping the cleansing part of your routine. It is imperative to wash your face to remove dirt, makeup, sunscreen, and other debris. Leaving those to build up on your skin can lead to bacteria and fungus that will create more skin problems.
So for those who are considering going caveman, may we instead suggest…a simple but effective beauty routine? “In this day and age, when everything moves so quickly, we want something quick and easy that’ll deliver results [and] is effective,” says David Kim, MD, board-certified dermatologist at NY Dermatology Group.
“I don’t think [multiple steps] are necessary to get excellent results,” adds Hadley King, MD, a New York City board-certified dermatologist. The answer has to lie somewhere in the middle.
What is the ideal basic skin-care routine?
If you’re looking to get back to the basics, there is a safe and effective way to do so. Dr. Kim says that this is especially helpful for those with sensitive skin, bad acne flare-ups, or perioral dermatitis.
The nonnegotiables, says Dr. King, are a gentle cleanser; a moisturizer that contains humectants, emollients, or occlusives; and sunscreen with SPF during the day. Serums, which contain active ingredients such as retinol or vitamin C, can be considered optional depending on your specific skin concerns. But you might be able to swap it for your moisturizer to get the most out of your minimal routine. “There are so many good lightweight serums that can deliver hydration and brighten the skin,” says Dr. Kim. “So I find it useful to use a cleanser, serum, and SPF. You can skip a moisturizer, especially in the summer.”
As for repairing a broken skin barrier, Dr. King recommends avoiding harsh ingredients and known irritants that might disrupt the barrier even more. Instead, she says, look for humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid to provide needed hydration. You’ll also want to look for ingredients such as ceramides that restore lipids in the barrier to start the healing process, while ingredients like niacinamide and L-lactic acid can help stimulate lipid growth. Soothing ingredients also help, she says, and you’ll want to look for something that will help with the irritation and inflammation.
Caveman skin-care routine, sorted. Next up? Fire.
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