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Modern gin is a delightful thing. Where peppery, piney berries have historically dominated the spirit, our modern gins, our New Westerns celebrate botanicals beyond the ubiquitous juniper. Florals may take the lead. Some turn to citrus, while others opt for berries, melon, or stonefruit. Herbs like lemongrass and rosemary, or a spice box of ginger, cardamom, and cinnamon may prevail. The ever-changing face of modern gin has birthed many styles to pique the palate of the gin aficionado—or anyone partial to the odd G&T. It’s clear to see why the gin sector is expected to reach upwards of $18 billion by 2029. But spoiled for choice as we are, it’s the recent wave of maritime-inspired small-batch coastal gins that I’ll be sipping this summer.
“A coastal gin is more than a spirit influenced by the sea,” Bogdan Tanasiou, president of BBC Spirits, tells Vogue. “For us, a true coastal gin should reflect the purity, minerality, and balance found in nature.” Charlie Maas, CEO of Papa Salt Coastal Gin, considers it more of a mindset. “To put it another way, we like to drink at the beach, but we don’t want to drink the beach,” he says.
Sea spray and seaweed. Sea kale and kelp. Drawing inspiration from botanicals on both sides of the shoreline, coastal gins offer a generous hit of umami, saline minerality, and freshness that conjure aromas and flavors of the salt-tinged seaside: Cornwall’s kelp and bladderwrack; the sea buckthorn berry and samphire that dot the islands and coasts of Scotland; Australian saltbush, wax flower, and wattleseed; the tidal troves of nori and kombu that thrive in the cold waters of the California Current.
These gins aren’t always limited to true botanicals. At the Isle of Bute Distillery, Rothesay, the team pioneered the use of oyster shells—what distillery manager Iona Buick calls, “an honorary botanical.” She explains, “The old distiller was also a brewer. He grew up in Kent where oyster stout is a thing. So we thought, if it works in beer, why not see if it works in gin?” If the subtle saline and mineral streak running through the distillery’s Oyster Gin are anything to go by, the wild bivalves harvested from the nearby Loch Fyne couldn t be more complementary. Now, oyster shells are appearing in coastal gins worldwide.
In some cases, distillers go straight to the source. For Etsu’s Pacific Ocean Water, crafted at the Asahikawa Distillery on Hokkaido, filtered, purified ocean water is added to bring the gin’s final alcohol level down to 45%. “We wanted to create a gin that felt like a moment of stillness beside the ocean, clean, mineral, yet emotionally resonant. The idea of using Pacific Ocean water came from a desire to incorporate a natural, living element from Hokkaido’s coastal environment. It felt both symbolic and sensorial, grounding the gin in place while also shaping its final texture,” Tanasiou says.
While gin isn’t as closely linked to the concept of terroir as wine or Scotch, certain gins unquestionably speak of a sense of place—and it’s this quality that defines coastal gin. “Our citrus notes come from California orange and lemon peel. The nori seaweed is foraged off the coast of Bodega Bay, and the angelica seeds and root are grown in Santa Rosa,” says Scott Jampol, founder of Sausalito Liquor Co, which makes Marin Coastal Gin. There’s a certain romanticism that lies at the heart of these remarkable gins, something conjured, perhaps, by that dramatic meeting of land and sea. “I think coastal gins are made with this concept,” he adds. “How do you capture the feelings, smells, emotions, and flavors of the coast?”
With wild-foraged ingredients like seaweed, however, sustainability is key. The nori for Marin Coastal Gin is hand-harvested from the beaches below the rugged bluffs of the Sonoma Coast by Heidi Herrmann, proprietor of Strong Arm Farm. “Wild harvesting involves careful observation and awareness of ecological systems and algae physiology. If cut properly, each seaweed species can regrow to their full potential that same year,” Herrman explains. Waking at 4:30 a.m. and working until sundown, Herrmann and her team trawl the shoreline. “We usually harvest about 200 lbs on a good morning. Examining then cutting each blade singularly by hand and stuffing it in a sack. As the tide comes in, we may harvest some upper tidal species, such as Nori and Fucus (rockweed).” She limits harvests of each site to once per season, periodically returning to monitor regrowth.
Given it’s a relatively new style, now is an exciting time for coastal gins. Free to experiment, distillers are concocting playful new expressions that summon the sea to your glass. “My guess is the next round of coastal gins will surprise us—we’ve got oyster shell gins and all varieties of seaweed gins,” Herrman says. “What’s next? I don’t know—but I am excited to try it.” He’s not the only one.
How to Use Coastal Gin in Cocktails
These multi-layered spirits offer a real versatility when cocktail hour strikes. While it’s sippable over ice (the purest way to experience those marvelous maritime elements), the saline flavor makes coastal gins an easy pick for mixing Martinis, the brinier, the better. “We love to argue whether the extra citrus burst you get from a lemon zest or the salty deliciousness that amplifies the nori from olives is best,” says Jampol. With those savory, salty notes, coastal gins lend a beautiful twist to the classic G&T or anything citrus.
No one will be surprised to hear oysters and other fruits de mer are a favorite partner for coastal gins. Paired with crispy lobster po’boys or butter-drench Dungeness? Pure pleasure. The saline quality enhances the delicate flavors in a sashimi platter but can hold its own to grilled seafood dishes, almost like a generous pinch of seasoning. “It pairs surprisingly well with cheeses like Comté or aged goat cheese, thanks to its mineral structure,” says Tanasiou, a recommendation echoed by Buick.
6 Artisan Coastal Gins for Any Occasion
Isle of Bute Distillery Oyster Shell Gin, $48
Adding oyster shells made this gin the first of its kind. The maritime overtones introduced by the Loch Fyne oyster shells and savory nori seaweed are expertly paired with traditional botanicals like citrus and angelica.
Breathtaking and balanced. Japanese yuzu makes an appearance, so too does bitter orange, supported by the canonic juniper, angelica, and coriander. The saline seawater note seamlessly integrates here, yielding a smooth, well-rounded gin.
Sausalito Liquor Co. Marin Coastal Gin, $35
“We use a lot of classic gin botanicals with a local twist,” Jampol explains. “We wanted it to be unmistakably a gin, but highlighted by the uniqueness of our area: Citrus fruit and seaweed.” As a Bay Area native, I can confirm Marin Coastal tastes like home.
Sheringham Distillery Seaside Gin, $45
Moving further up the West Coast into Canada, there’s Sheringham Distillery’s Seaside Gin whose profile is influenced by Vancouver Island’s coastal environment. This one leans into rose and lavender florals with the local sustainability-harvested winged kelp taking on a supporting role. If you’re looking for an introduction to coastal gin, this is it.
Oyster shell, citrus peel, zesty wax flower, and hibiscus layered over coastal wattleseed, which lends a touch of nuttiness to Papa Salt, and an attractive spice note. “Papa Salt really shines in long, citrus-forward drinks. You can make a great Paloma with Papa Salt and grapefruit soda,” Haas recommends. One for lazy days at the beach.
I apologize in advance, because this one isn’t available in the U.S. Rather, it’s one to seek out the next time your travels take you to the Emerald Isle. Santa Ana is based on the Donegal distillery’s exceptional Irish Maritime gin, crafted with five local seaweeds. This version is aged in Rioja casks and bottled at navy strength—a first in Ireland and an ingenious take on the style.