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If you’ve ever eaten Italian food—not just in Italy but anywhere in the world—you’ve undoubtedly tasted some of the iconic products that come from Emilia-Romagna: Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, mortadella, balsamic vinegar, to name just a few. Yet Emilia-Romagna is rarely the first region that people visit when they go to the boot. That’s a shame because it has an incredible diversity of experiences to offer, from elegant cities like Bologna, Parma, and Modena to beaches in Rimini, vineyards in the countryside, and Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna. Though it’s located just north of Tuscany, it remains blissfully uncrowded and under-the-radar.
“We don’t promote ourselves,” says Massimo Bottura, the superstar chef behind Osteria Francescana and the official ambassador for Emilia-Romagna. “We’re a bit closed. We protect our territory. And that’s why it’s real. This is the real Italy.”
This spring, if you want to visit an under-the-radar alternative to Tuscany, with beautiful scenery, fantastic food and wine, plenty of history, and cultural riches, plan a trip to Emilia-Romagna instead.
Where to Stay
This uber-chic bed and breakfast in an 18th-century villa in the countryside just outside Modena is the ultimate place for foodies and art lovers to stay. The passion project of Massimo Bottura and his wife Lara Gilmore, it has just 12 rooms (though they’re adding eight more rooms this summer) and is home to Francescana at Maria Luigia, where Bottura’s most iconic dishes are served at communal tables every night, and Al Gatto Verde, the chef’s newest restaurant, which focuses on wood-fired cooking. It’s also the only place where you can eat breakfast by Bottura—and it’s definitely worth waking up for. Guests can help themselves to gourmet snacks in the kitchen and play one of the 8,000 vinyl records in Bottura’s collection. Oh, and there’s also an enviable collection of contemporary art by the likes of Ai Weiwei, Tracy Emin, Joseph Beuys, and Damien Hirst.
If you’re visiting Bologna—and you definitely should—this is the best hotel in town. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World originally built as a seminary in the 18th century, this historic grande dame has hosted a who’s who of royalty and celebrities, including Sophia Loren, Frank Sinatra, and Princess Diana. The restaurant, I Caracci, has ceiling frescoes attributed to the Caracci brothers while the Caffè Marinetti is dedicated to Futurist artist Filippo Tommaso Marinetti. The hotel is centrally located just a couple of blocks from Piazza Maggiore.
Fans of Italian cinema should book a room at the Grand Hotel Rimini, where famed filmmaker Federico Fellini used to stay when he returned to his hometown. The hotel has undergone some updates since Fellini’s days, but the peaceful gardens and the elegant restaurant on the terrace look much as they would have back then, allowing guests to indulge in a little Dolce Vita fantasy.
What to Do
To deepen your appreciation for Emilia-Romagna’s most delicious products, you can visit a dairy and an acetaia (a balsamic vinegar cellar) to see how they’re made. The family-run Caseificio Montecoppe in Parma welcomes visitors for tours and tastings of their Parmigiano Reggiano, which is produced following the strict regulations set forth by the Consortium of Parmigiano Reggiano.
Meanwhile, in Modena, it’s a tradition for families to keep casks of balsamic vinegar in their attics. The concentrated liquid is so prized it’s called “black gold” and was historically offered to the groom as part of the bride’s dowry. Guests of Casa Maria Luigia, Francescana at Maria Luigia, and Al Gatto Verde can visit the on-site Acetaia Maria Luigia, which has casks of balsamic vinegar that have been aging since the Second World War. Or, make an appointment to visit the family-run Acetaia di Giorgio, where the Obamas’ preferred balsamic vinegar ages in the attic of a charming pink villa.
Located right in the center of Parma, the Pilotta Museum Complex comprises the National Gallery, the Farnese Theater, the Palatine Library, the Archeological Museum, and the Bodoni Museum. With one ticket, you can gaze at masterpieces by Da Vinci and Parmigianino; see one of the largest Baroque theaters in Europe; admire the royal 18th-century library; see archeological treasures from the Roman, Etruscan, and Egyptian civilizations; and admire historic printing presses at the oldest printing museum in Italy.
As the capital of Emilia-Romagna, Bologna is a treasure trove of historic and cultural sites, not to mention the world’s oldest university. Spend some time exploring its porticoes, which are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and visiting places like Piazza Maggiore with its iconic Neptune fountain, the Seven Churches, the Pinacoteca Nazionale art museum, and the Biblioteca Communale dell’Archiginnasio, where you can admire coats of arms decorating the halls and see the 17th-century Anatomical Theater where doctors dissected humans and animals before medical students. Then, spend some time wandering around the Quadrilatero, Bologna’s historic market district.
A diffused museum dedicated to hometown hero Federico Fellini, the Fellini Museum delves into the creative imagination of one of Italy’s greatest filmmakers. In Sismondo Castle, you can see immersive exhibits dedicated to his greatest films, including La Dolce Vita and 8 ½. The rest of the museum is spread out between Fulgor Palace, which contains the cinema once frequented by Fellini in his youth, and Malatesta Square, where an installation evokes his film Amarcord.
There’s much more to the wines of this region than fizzy Lambrusco. As the flat Po Valley in Emilia transitions into the hilly terrain of Romagna, the land becomes dotted with vineyards. At her namesake winery, Chiara Condello makes natural wines with Sangiovese Romagnolo, which some scholars believe predates the more famous Tuscan Sangiovese grape. Nearby is Pandolfa, a family-run winery on the grounds of an 18th-century estate that offers tours and tastings. And don’t miss a visit to Fattoria Zerbina run by Cristina Geminiani, known as the godmother of albana, a white wine made with indigenous grapes.
Near the Adriatic coast, Ravenna became the capital of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century and subsequently of the Byzantine Empire—so to see the most breathtaking Byzantine mosaics in Italy, you have to go here. Decorating a series of eight early Christian monuments, they dazzle with scenes made from gold and multi-colored tiles. All eight monuments are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, but the most breathtaking one might be the small Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, which features intricate gold designs against a deep blue background that evokes the night sky.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, the small city of Faenza became famous all over Europe for the production of majolica—so much so that the word faience derives from the name of this city. You can learn all about this rich artistic history at the International Museum of Ceramics, which displays historic pottery and organizes exhibits like the current one focused on the ceramics of renowned architect Gio Ponti.
About 20 minutes from Modena, the town of Maranello is home to the Ferrari factory and one of two Ferrari museums. Here you can see archival cars from the 1950s and ’60s and learn about the milestone races and other events that defined automotive history.
Where to Eat
The restaurant that put Modena on the map is still the only restaurant in Emilia-Romagna to hold three Michelin stars. This is where Bottura and his brigade continue to experiment with haute interpretations of Emilian cuisine. According to Bottura, to get a table, you should plan to book six months in advance.
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The younger sibling of Osteria Francescana, this casual gastro-bistro is a place where young chefs can start to experiment with a bit of guidance from Bottura. “We send many young interns there to work on their ideas,” he says. If you go, be sure to order the tortellini in parmesan cream sauce from Tortellante, Bottura and Gilmore’s non-profit organization that trains young adults on the autism spectrum to make tortellini.
Located near the Ferrari Factory and Museum in Maranello, Bottura’s restaurant in collaboration with the Ferrari family tends to draw automotive fanatics, Ferrari executives, and foodies. Inspired by a traditional Emilian trattoria, the menu is a bit more traditional, but still has plenty of contemporary flair. It also features chic interior design by India Mahdavi that incorporates vintage Ferrari memorabilia.
The newest restaurant in Bottura’s little empire, Al Gatto Verde is an ode to wood-fired cooking by Casa Maria Luigia’s Culinary Director Jessica Rosval. Not quite fine dining and not a casual barbecue spot either, it offers the option to order dishes like baby back ribs with juniper-infused balsamic vinegar a la carte. But the way to go is to order the eight-course tasting menu, so you can taste all the creative ways Rosval plays with smoke and flames.
One of Parma’s most beloved restaurants, this traditional trattoria makes the most divine pumpkin-stuffed tortelli. Start with the antipasto misto and the torta fritta, but be sure to save room for dessert. They’ll wheel a cart of homemade gelato and various toppings over to your table for an Emilian version of make-your-own sundaes.
This family-run restaurant attached to the Daniel Hotel in Parma is a favorite among locals and visitors alike. In addition to standards like charcuterie and tortelli, you’ll find more unusual dishes like pumpkin flan with parmesan fonduta and Parmesan rice savarin, a dome of risotto draped with prosciutto.
Established in 1856, this historic bakery in Parma claims to have invented the torta ungherese, a rich cake with layers of sponge cake and chocolate buttercream. Stop by to try it for yourself—they sell it in individual portions or whole cakes.
The walls of this intimate restaurant open since 1944 in the center of Bologna are covered with black-and-white photographs of actors who dined there in the past. Today you’ll find the same dishes that have been on the menu for decades, including a sublime tagliatelle al ragù and tarte tatin.
It doesn’t get much more old school than this restaurant that opened in 1909 in the heart of Bologna. White-jacketed waiters still serve lasagna and other traditional Emilian dishes. If you order the tortellini in brodo (which you should), the waiter will serve it tableside, ladled from a silver tureen on a cart.
If the heavy Emilian cuisine starts to weigh you down, head to this historic wine bar in Bologna to sample natural wines and graze on focaccia and prosciutto. Grab a bottle off the shelves stocked with more than 500 labels, or ask the owner for a recommendation.
Where to Shop
The owner of this little shop in Modena sources beautiful fabrics from around the world and transforms them into chic toes, clutches, and backpacks. You might find a Missoni-inspired shoulder bag, a damask clutch with a gold chain, or a tote made from an Oriental rug.
Want to bring home some of Emilia-Romagna’s gastronomic specialties? The shelves and counter of this little gourmet deli in Parma are piled high with tortellini, vacuum-sealed salami, Parmigiano Reggiano, and other delicacies.
Massimo Bottura likes to shop at this historic covered market in the center of Modena, where you’ll find vendors selling fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat, and fresh pasta. Lara Gilmore recommends Schiavoni, a tiny sandwich shop in the corner of the market for sandwiches made to order.
This small vintage shop in Parma specializes in luxury bags by Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Hermès, but also has a selection of vintage clothes and jewelry.
Historically, Bologna was known for cobblers, and at this little boutique in the city’s Jewish Ghetto, artisans still make men’s shoes by hand. Choose from one of the models available in the shop or have a pair of shoes custom-made to your size and specifications.
This small gallery near Bologna’s Two Towers specializes in antique prints and maps. Items range in size and price from Ex Libris bookplates to original 18th-century maps.