With so much of Western Europe overrun by tourists, savvy travelers are turning toward Belgium. Those already familiar with the unsung hero wedged between—and deeply influenced by—France, the Netherlands, and Germany no doubt count it as a favorite destination. Brussels impresses with its grand buildings and has a strong presence as both a financial and political center. Bruges looks like it sprang from the pages of a storybook. Antwerp has a fashion cachet and sparkly diamonds. And then there’s Ghent—a Flemish city in the north with medieval charm, a modern mindset, and far less name recognition.
No longer second (or, err, fourth fiddle) to policy-making Brussels, fairytale Bruges, and stylish Antwerp, Ghent has recently emerged from the shadow of its more notable neighbors. Not exactly an upstart—after all, it’s been around for centuries—this Flemish underdog, built way back in 630, is now forging its own, very cool path. Students account for a quarter of the 265,000-person population. As a younger generation puts its mark on the historic city, fresh energy courses through its cobbled streets.
Riverside bars buzz with undergrads from Belgium and beyond. Perhaps the most surprising badge of its newly minted hipster status—and one that certainly breaks from Flemish tradition—is the plant-forward corner of the food scene, which also includes some Michelin-starred heavy hitters, cozy bistros, and restaurant terraces. With medieval architecture, rich café culture, and a vibrant scene, Ghent is a burgeoning creative powerhouse.
Whether you’re planning a day trip, staying overnight, or carving out a few days to wander, this Ghent guide is packed with can’t-miss classics and fresh additions to the ever-evolving scene.
Where to Stay
Many of us feel nostalgic for the days of snail mail and sweeping postal halls. But what became of these former palaces of letters and packages in the age of e-mail? Some, like Ghent’s historic post office, have found a new lease on life as hotels. Tucked into a corner of the grand neo-Gothic building, 1898 The Post is a first-class revival that doesn’t rely on fanfare. The 38-key boutique hotel trades over-the-top gestures for cozy charm, favoring an intimate reception over an enormous lobby. The marks of its mail-exchange past are everywhere. The rooms—named after stamps, postcards, envelopes, letters, and carriages—feature antique writing desks, rotary phones, built-in bookcases, and framed sketches of the original post office. Even the second-floor honesty bar evokes a vintage postman’s office.
A far cry from run-of-the-mill lumpy bed and bare bones breakfast, The Verhaegen serves up refined hospitality on a small scale in the historic center of Ghent. Tucked inside an impeccably preserved 18th-century mansion, the former residence of diplomat Count d’Hane Steenhuyse, the halcyon hideaway is as brilliantly detailed as you’d imagine of an overnight dream created by interior designers Jan Rosseel and Marc Vergauwe. Its opulent good looks are paired with a peaceful atmosphere. With just four rooms, there’s not a whole lot of noise echoing in the gilded corridors; just a handful of well-dressed visitors sipping tea in the garden and sitting on antique furnishings, before retiring to the stately charms of a canopy bed.
Belgium has its own brand of elegance. That’s perfectly encapsulated by Pillows Grand Boutique Hotel Reylof, a hospitality haven honoring poet Baron Olivier de Reylof, in the place he once called home. Travelers who prefer a bit of pomp will appreciate the gravitas and style of the hotel. Occupying a pair of historic townhouses, the interiors are laced with Louis XIV sophistication and contemporary comforts. The sophisticated salons and fine-dining restaurants project the panache of the past, while the rooms and suites (some of which have freestanding tubs) reflect a more streamlined, yet still plush, spirit. There’s also a spa for sauna and steam sessions, facials, massages, and swimming in the heated pool.
With its up-and-coming zest, younger crowd, and proximity to Brussels (just a 28-minute direct train ride), it’s not entirely surprising that Ghent isn’t stocked with five-star luxury hotels. If you can’t sleep without Frette linens or white-glove service at the press of a button, the Corinthia Grand Hotel Astoria Brussels and Hotel Amigo, a Rocco Forte Hotel provide plenty of polish—just one stop away.
Where to Eat and Drink
Ghent is best known for its traditional Flemish dishes, such as waterzooi (a creamy stew made with leeks, carrots, eggs, and either chicken or fish) and vol-au-vents (pastry shells filled with rich chicken and mushroom filling). To get your fix of Flanders fare, tuck into a table for crispy croquettes and hearty stew at the hip, vintage-tinged Mémé Gusta, cozy up at Du Progres, or get the Michelin-recommended sweetbread fritters at Patyntje. Not surprisingly, given its proximity to the border, there are plenty of excellent French-inflected restaurants, including Brasserie Midi and Lys d’Or.
In a break with tradition, the city has a robust veg-forward scene that’s earned it the title of the “vegetarian capital of Europe.” Beyond the heavier carnivore-forward fare, plant-based diners, the health-conscious crowd, and travelers who’ve had their fill of meat (at least, until the next meal) will find plenty of options, from slow food at the candle-lit, film-set-fantastical Epiphany’s Kitchen to knol&kool, a cool, casual spot that’s equal parts organic market and vegan bistro to Boon, which dishes out veg-friendly soups and sandwiches for lunch, right across from the castle.
Over the last few years, the culinary landscape has grown increasingly diverse, moving beyond the classics to celebrate international flavors to the delight of travelers and locals. Le Baan Thaï serves tom kha gai (Thai coconut chicken soup), khoong phad pong kerry (fried king prawns with yellow curry), and, of course, Vegetarian favorites such as tauhu phad prick (tofu with chilli and basil leaves). Meanwhile, Taberna Bask is a pintxo bar for snacking on padron peppers and sipping Albariño, and you can taste the global influence in the cooking at De Lieve.
Ghent also has a booming cafe culture, where fashionable residents and jet-lagged travelers linger over strong coffee and flaky pastries. Way Coffee Roasters is a well-known local chain, beloved for its pour-overs and vegan sausage rolls. Another plant-based outpost, Madam Bakster is a go-to for cakes (that just so happen to be free of refined sugar) and frothy lattes.
Most travelers bound for Belgium come craving chocolate, and there’s no shortage of spots to snag sweet treats in Ghent. Known for its craftsmanship and history, Chocolade Ambassade offers hands-on bean-to-bonbon workshops, chocolate-genever tastings, and stocking up on artisan-made truffles. Don’t miss the artful confections from Chocolatier Deduytschaever, either.
Belgium’s craft beer traditions date back to monks in the Middle Ages. Today’s thirsty travelers can choose from historic breweries, cozy taverns, and modern microbreweries. Whether you prefer pale ales, lambics, Flemish red ales, sours, or stouts (or don’t know the difference), Dulle Griet pours more than 500 kinds of Belgian beer, so it’s the perfect place to discover your favorite.
What to See and Do
One of Ghent’s most emblematic landmarks, Gravensteen served as the residence of the Counts of Flanders until 1353. After stints as a court, prison, mint, and cotton mill, it s now a tourist attraction with restored rooms, landscaped grounds, and a quirky audio tour packed with tales from the past.
Just steps away, Sint-Veerleplein is an atmospheric waterside square full of cafés, cozy eateries, tourists snapping photos, and locals catching up with friends. It’s a savvy starting point for a self-guided walking tour of the city. Walk over to St. Michael’s Bridge to view Saint Nicholas’ Church, the Belfry of Ghent, and Saint Bavo’s Cathedral. The bridge itself is an architectural marvel and a must-see stop. It’s also worth strolling along Graslei and Korenlei to admire the stunning medieval architecture and soak in the historic riverside atmosphere. For a modern contrast to the city’s many medieval moodboards, head to Werregarenstraatje, often called “Graffiti Street,” where brightly colored murals showcase the creative edge of contemporary Ghent.
On the museum front, S.M.A.K displays a rotating exhibition from contemporary artists from across Belgium and beyond. STAM (Ghent City Museum) gives visitors a look at the past and present through exhibits about the development and planning behind the city.
Travelers visiting Ghent during December will have something to be extra cheerful about. The holiday market takes over Groentenmarkt, transforming it into a festive wonderland full of stalls selling hot cider, mulled wine, sausage, ornaments, and other handcrafted trinkets, plus live music, old-timey rides, and a skating rink.
While it’s a fair point that no one would fault you for packing an itinerary with sightseeing, it’s in the unscheduled moments that Ghent comes most alive—whether that’s seeing models pose for a photoshoot of an up-and-coming Flemish design along the banks of the Lys, or simply people watching with a pint in hand.