Japan is a destination that reveals itself in tiny meditations. You see it in the graceful whisks of powdered matcha at a tea ceremony. Though the reverent bows while entering a forest shrine. And in the precision of crafting washi, ceramics, and gold leaf. If ever there were an antidote to the frantic, tab-switching pitfalls of Western culture, it’s a visit to Japan. And while cities like Tokyo and Kyoto continue to attract high numbers of tourists each year, if you’re itching for an unsung region that embodies the country’s best traits—just without the crowds and clout—Hokuriku is a compelling contender.
The region stretches along the northwestern coast of central Japan, punctuated by world-famous peaks like Mount Tateyama, and bordered by the Sea of Japan. Hokuriku’s three core prefectures are Toyama, Ishikawa, and Fukui, each offering its own mix of traditional crafts, distinctive cuisine, and cultural heritage. Hike mossy trails to practice zen meditation with a monk, witness ancient crafts come alive at artisan workshops, take a soul-replenishing soak in thermal waters, and feast upon the most melt-in-your-mouth sushi you’ve ever encountered. Even still, that’s only scratching the surface of what Hokuriku is all about.
Getting Around
Flights into Tokyo Haneda (HND) are operated by several international carriers, such as Delta who flies to HND from most of its hubs. For your travel itinerary, it’s best to build in a day or two in Tokyo to adjust to the time change and allow for a buffer should any delays occur. After settling in, hop on the Hokuriku Shinkansen high-speed bullet train that zips you to the region in two-and-a-half hours or less. A seat in the Gran Class cabin is the way to do it—sip sake and nibble on clams simmered in miso and ginger while you watch the landscape shift from high-rises to rural countryside.
The Hokuriku Shinkansen partially opened in the late ‘90s as a transportation method for the 1998 Winter Olympics. The route expanded in 2015, and then again in 2024, now making the region even more accessible to tourists. Travelers can journey between the bullet train’s stops and utilize local transport at each location, or opt for a private driver on days when covering more ground with flexibility is the priority. Make Toyama Station your first stop on the train, and at the end of your Hokuriku itinerary, if you prefer to fly back to Tokyo (or onward elsewhere in the country), Komatsu Airport is the largest and best-connected in the region.
Where to Stay
For a supremely soft landing, kick off your Hokuriku journey with a stay in the Northern Japanese Alps in Toyama. As its name suggests, this property is set on a river and overlooks misty mountains just beyond the water’s edge. Opt for a premier suite in the hotel’s annex building (complete with an indoor hot spring bath) and set aside an afternoon to take in the curation of contemporary art throughout the rooms and public spaces. Trésonnier is the main dining concept, and chef Ippei Tanaka sources seasonal ingredients from the surrounding Toyama mountains, rivers, and bay.
This three-room boutique hotel in western Toyama is surrounded by rice paddies and occupies a farmer’s house dating back 200 years. Its renovation is part of a broader mission to revitalize the region, with a 2% community donation added onto each accommodation stay. The interiors feel in line with what you’d find at any of the best boutique hotels in Kyoto or Tokyo. Antiques from China’s Xen dynasty sit in dialogue with commissioned pieces by contemporary artist Rei Naito, and each guest room is themed after a natural element—paper, silk, and soil. Rakudo-An’s on-property restaurant, Il Clima, changes its menu daily and is helmed by chef Yuta Hamada, whose previous work has been recognized by the Michelin Guide and Gault Millau.
Set in an old art gallery, this minimalist hotel in downtown Kanazawa is a soothing home base for your time in the prefecture. The interiors are pared-back and awash in light, and amenities like freestanding tubs and leafy views of a nearby park make Korinkyo a treat to return to after a day of sightseeing. Don’t miss the rooftop sauna and cypress baths, which can be reserved throughout the day, and the restaurant’s Taiwanese cuisine draws upon Eastern medical concepts for a nourishing smattering of dishes like bamboo steamed vegetables and radish cakes.
A new opening in the Fukui Prefecture, Kanshukuen Eshitoko lies at the foot of Mount Joboji and gazes out at the Kuzuryu River. There are eight rooms in total—each with a hot spring open-air bath—and design details include works by both contemporary and folk artists. Fukui cuisine and Echizen sake are central to the stay, with an ambitious menu consisting of seasonal bites such as spring Sakura trout and autumn Wakasa noguji.
Burrowed within the storybook Echizen Washi village, this cozy inn offers just three rooms, each themed after the raw materials used to make Japanese paper (Kozo, Mitsumata, and Gampi). Sleek and simple by design, Suku’s streamlined aesthetic offers an immersive experience within this ancient setting. Spend your time strolling along narrow, quiet streets set beside the river, and observe the nearly 40 paper workshops scattered across town.
Where to Eat and Drink
You’ve had ramen, sure, but what about black ramen? For this unique specialty, a pitstop in Toyama is required. Nischico Taiki is an old school, cash-only spot where black ramen was originally created as a hearty meal for post-WWII laborers. Its name comes from the dark broth that’s made with a heavy, salty soy sauce and seasoned with pepper and garlic. Best enjoyed with an Asahi beer.
Thanks to the Northern Alps and the deep waters of Toyama Bay, the nutrient-rich runoff supports a diverse marine ecosystem and results in sushi that’s world-renowned. Whether you’re grabbing a casual bite in the train station or opting for an upscale setting, don’t leave Toyama without sampling its raw fish.
Slurp up a comforting bowl of soba at this Michelin-rated restaurant in the Fukui prefecture. The local specialty is Echizen Oroshi Soba, (buckwheat noodles with graded radish), and they serve it with a warm soba tea and a cold dipping sauce.
The Kanazawa prefecture is one of Japan’s most notable sake regions thanks to the pure, soft spring water that filters down from the nearby Hakusan Mountains, as well as access to high-quality rice. This historic sake producer was founded in 1625 and offers brewery tours and tastings for visitors keen to learn more about Junmai sake (which is the traditional approach, using only rice, water, yeast, and koji mold).
Sync up your time in Fukui to slowly savor a meal at this intimate restaurant open on Tuesdays and Wednesdays for lunch and dinner. Owner and chef Yohei Tanihashi takes the mountains as his muse when conceptualizing the tasting menu, which incorporates everything from morel mushrooms to wild herbs and fruits.
What to Do
Metal casting has been central to the city of Takaoka’s identity for over 400 years, with bronze, copper, and iron techniques used to produce everything from tea kettles to Buddhist altar fittings. Watch how it’s done with a design workshop at Risaburo, which includes melting down tin and pouring it into traditional sand-cast molds.
A winding, ethereal mountain drive leads you to this remote setting in the Gokayama region of Toyama. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ainokura Village is made up of around 20 traditional thatched-roof houses dating back between 100 to 350 years. (Around 50 people still live in the village.)
Kumiko is a heritage style of woodworking that uses thinly slit wood strips to create intricate patterns—assembled without nails or glue. These delicate, interlocking designs are created for objects like decorative panels and ceiling lattices, and have been a traditional craft since around the 8th century when Buddhism was first introduced to Japan. At Tanihata’s headquarters in Toyama, visitors can experience a factory tour and even try their hand at Kumiko.
A stroll through Higashi Chaya, one of Kanazawa’s largest geisha districts, feels like stepping back in time. Edo-period teahouses line narrow walkways, and spotting people dressed in yukata and kimono is a common occurrence. Craft shops are also peppered through the district, including those dedicated to gold leaf (virtually all of Japan’s gold leaf product comes from Kanazawa).
The opportunity to interact with a geisha is rare and often difficult for most tourists, but Kanazawa offers a few bookable performances that deliver an authentic experience. For the full immersion, opt for a traditional kaiseki dinner paired with geiko performances and personal interactions. Set near Japan’s oldest fountain in Kenrokuen Garden, the Art of Geisha evening includes singing, musical performances, and traditional drinking games shared with the geiko. (Etiquette Tip: In traditional Japanese settings like these, it’s polite to pour sake for others rather than yourself.)
Designed by acclaimed architect Kengo Kuma, this museum showcases glass art from around the world and includes a popular installation by renowned glass artist Dale Chihuly. The building also houses the city’s library, which looks especially striking due to the extensive use of cedar wood used in the production of the building.
For over 700 years, Echizen’s hammered blades have made the region a historic epicenter for knife production. Equally celebrated is Echizen lacquerware, which finds a unique connection with knives through lacquered handles. At Etoe, visitors can get a lay of the land by witnessing artisans at work (and taking home some new cutlery, of course).
If it’s green moss you seek, add this ancient shrine in Echizen to your itinerary. It was originally founded in 717 as a Buddhist temple, but now serves as a Shinto shrine that’s accessed via a dramatic uphill path surrounded by towering cedar trees.
This 800-year-old temple is known as the first training hall that was established by Zen Buddhism master Dōgen Zenji after arriving in the Echizen province. These days, visitors can enjoy a lunch and meditation with the insightful temple manager, Haku (who also happens to be an exceptional cook, whipping up vegan bites like wild mushroom soup and Japanese pickled radish).
As the legend goes, 1,500 years ago, a goddess appeared upstream of the Okamoto River and instructed Echizen villagers on how to make washi—and it’s been producing Japanese paper ever since. There are around 43 factories within Echizen, many of which host guests for demos and hands-on workshops. Make an appointment at Taki Seishi to see how washi is made from start to finish, and at Yanase Ryozo Paper Mill, you can make your own paper to take home.
