Introducing Retori—a Made-in-Italy Collection With Art at Its Heart

Retori, the Milan-based brand founded and creative directed by Salma Rachid, has at its core “the celebration of the idea of destiny, the belief that each of us has a story already written, and that life is the journey of uncovering it.” She explains: “This guiding philosophy is expressed not through slogans, but through art—the most powerful form of storytelling.”

Each collection of this peculiar label is conceived as a “chapter” in an unfolding narrative, because its story is ever-evolving. And each one begins with a conversation with an artist whose life, challenges, and insights serve as the creative spark. These dialogues aren’t just inspiration; they’re catalysts. “We draw from the artists’ experiences the key lessons we hope to pass on, translating them into color, texture, and emotion,” the designer says.

Photo: Courtesy of Retori

Photo: Courtesy of Retori

Photo: Courtesy of Retori

Photo: Courtesy of Retori

The Egyptian-born Rachid launched Retori last year; the brand is backed by her father Rachid M. Rachid’s Alsara Investment Group. “My background is actually in social anthropology,” she explains. “I’ve always been fascinated by people, how societies function, how individuals connect. That curiosity is really where it all began.” She studied in London and later in the States at UCLA, where she also explored creative writing. “I’ve always loved weaving disciplines together. For me, it was never about choosing one form of expression—it was about finding a way to make them speak to each other.”

So why fashion? Why not open a gallery or dedicate herself to one ‘proper’ art form? “What truly inspired me was the extraordinary craftsmanship in Italy. There’s a purity to it, a heritage of making that feel like the perfect foundation. I wanted to build something that brings all the arts—design, painting, music, food—onto one platform. A kind of living, wearable archive,” she says. “And at the heart of it is the narration. The name Retori comes from the word Rhetoric, which is the ancient art of story and communication.”

Photo: Courtesy of Retori

Retori’s Chapter 2 collection, conceived with a trans-seasonal, timeless ethos, was unveiled during Paris couture week, in the setting of the former atelier of legendary French antique dealer and decorator Madeleine Castaing. For the occasion, the brand collaborated with Tbilisi-based design collective Room Studio, who created a series of bespoke home furnishings that punctuated the space. Meanwhile, the fashion collection took shape in dialogue with Miko Veldkamp, a young Dutch-Indonesian artist whose practice is influenced by a multicultural upbringing —Indonesia, Denmark, New York, Suriname. “His philosophy is that you’re never less than 100% of every identity you carry.”

Asked who she’s designing for, Rachid replied that her customer is an explorer by nature, always in motion and curious, and “always ready for the unexpected magic life might offer at any given moment.” The wardrobe follows suit: elegant yet practical, comfortable without compromising on style, and crafted with the kind of quality that stands the test of time. These are pieces meant to travel with the wearer, physically and emotionally, and “to carry stories worth sharing.”

Photo: Courtesy of Retori

Photo: Courtesy of Retori

Veldkamp’s globe-trotting life journey threads its way through the collection: nods to Indonesian decorative motifs and colors, hints of loose Asian silhouettes, and flourishes of frenetic New York energy are intertwined in a wearable wardrobe rooted in elegant practicality. “It’s not maximalism, certainly. There’s a minimalist clarity, yes, but never cold, never austere,” muses Rachid.

Drawing from Veldkamp’s layered visual universe, the collection balances structure and ease. Think cocooning coats, reversible outerwear, and featherlight cabans, all softly tailored from high-grade double wool. Mangosteen-shaped fasteners offer a cheeky nod to the artist’s southeast Asian roots, while dots, grids, and checks—Veldkamp signatures—lend a graphic edge to relaxed tailoring. Menswear leans into volume and lightness, from travel-ready coats to silk-cashmere suits with just the right amount of slouch. Boldly hued wool-denim pairings in green and orange proves Retori’s devotion to craftsmanship.

At the presentation, two of Veldkamp’s original artworks, touchstones for the collection’s mood and palette, were on display. “These are two of the pieces we acquired from the artist,” notes Rachid. Each season, she purchases and curates pieces from the talents—sometimes newly commissioned, sometimes serendipitously discovered—that capture the spirit of the chapter. “But it’s more than just collecting,” she adds. “We host events, support their exhibitions, and create platforms for them to grow with us. It’s a two-way conversation—and yes, along the way, we’re building a small, very intentional art collection. A gallery in motion, you could say.”