Harikrishnan Keezhathil Surendran Pillai, also known as Harri, has rapidly made an impact on the London circuit. His 2019 MA collection at the London College of Fashion featured head-turning, expansive latex balloon pants that went viral. Those pieces were constructed from latex panels and inflated by a seven-millimeter-wide valve connected to the bottoms. Earlier this year, singer Sam Smith wore one of Harri’s outlandish creations at the Brit Awards, thrusting the designer even further into the spotlight. Now Harri has unveiled his spring collection at London Fashion Week through his first stand-alone runway show.
“I’m severely color-blind, so my work centers around layers of form and texture,” Harri explained about his design process postshow. Having previously pursued bodybuilding in India (officially quitting in 2016) and growing up with an artist father, the designer, originally from Kerala who later studied in London in 2017, is particularly fascinated by the human body’s contours. He elaborated, stating, “My father encouraged me to study Sarah Simblet’s book Anatomy for the Artist, which I was obsessed with during my gym days. However, my interests within it took a different turn when I began sketching clothes.”
Titled Chapter Three: Texture Movement, the spring collection—which was presented at the Newgen space at the Old Selfridges Hotel—was an elevated spin on unusual silhouettes inspired by the bulbous creations of artists Isamu Noguchi and Peter Shelton. Proportions of the human body were explored through inflated latex suits—in collaboration with Supatex—featuring models with glistening, grease-slicked skin and bald caps with extended hairpieces. The palette ranged from neon greens to subdued grays to somber black tones. The show incorporated dance choreography into the spectacle and artfully blurred the boundary between fashion and performance.
While Harri excels in crafting sculpturelike garments, he also demonstrates a capable hand at tailoring. Meticulously cut pieces, made from recycled Japanese nylon fabric that “almost resembles a rocklike texture,” were transformed into distinctive suits featuring pointed shoulders and paired with sleek leggings. To add depth to the collection, Harri collaborated with Vibram to create unconventional five-toe flat shoes in black and neon green.
As the designer continues to leave his mark on the London scene, his engineered creations, coupled with his tailoring and showmanship, are undeniably pushing boundaries. Where Harri will take his creative language next season remains a subject of speculation.