If you’re planning a ski trip to Lake Tahoe—a region centered on the largest alpine lake in North America, straddling California and Nevada—when you plan to go is as important as where. While the ski season has historically started well before Christmas, in recent years the better ski conditions have been arriving later and later, making early spring the ideal time to turn up and indulge in some serious powder—provided you have four-wheel drive and snow tires. (Even the larger roads regularly close due to snowstorms, and cars are frequently stopped by police to check for chains or appropriate outfitting during inclement weather—if you think that sounds like overkill, you’ve never heard of the Donner party, for whom the local Donner Pass and nearby Donner Lake are named.)
But even with the possibility of less-than-perfect powder conditions, a trip to Lake Tahoe’s aquamarine waters and rolling mountain ranges, grim Old West histories, and peppy post-Covid population boom is a very good idea this time of year. Plus, when the sun comes out, you’re in for the kind of views you’ll find nowhere else in the world.
How to Get There
Reno Airport is a quick 30 to 40 minute drive from North Lake Tahoe, and a little under an hour from South. Sacramento Airport is a scenic two-hour drive from Lake Tahoe that takes you through Tahoe National Forest, among other sights. If you are planning to explore around the region, renting a car (with snow tires!) is the smart move.
West Coast denizens, especially those in the Bay Area, often drive the four hours from San Francisco to North Lake Tahoe on I-80. Though be warned: with any automotive approach, the weather conditions have been known to create cortisol-raising (and time-consuming) wrinkles this time of year, so plan accordingly.
Where to Stay
Tahoe has the largest concentration of ski areas in America, many with a wide variety of terrain for beginners and experts alike—and seriously spellbinding snowcapped views of emerald-colored lake waters, or curiously contrasting Nevada desert vistas. To drive from the north side of the lake to the south takes at least an hour, weather and traffic permitting, which doesn’t include parking, and means you will want to plan your lodging accordingly—or perhaps plan for a longer ski break, with stops in the north and south sides of the lake to take full advantage. (Pro tip: Ski Butlers will deliver gear to one resort and retrieve it from another, if arranged in advance.)
The Lodge at Edgewood Tahoe is located on the Nevada side of South Lake Tahoe, mere minutes from the casino-riddled strip, but (blissfully!) an entire world away aesthetically. The hotel has 154 rooms, many with gas fireplaces, soaking tubs, and awe-inspiring uninterrupted views of the lake, thanks to its position directly on the lakeshore. The hotel was designed in the manner of a heavily glassed modern lodge, with a soaring lakefront great room, extensive spa, large outdoor pool and hot tub, and fine dining restaurant, the Bistro at Edgewood.
An expert-staffed on-property adventure center handles all things sporting, from gear rentals to arranging lessons and other excursions, and there is a free shuttle to both town and ski lifts on either the California or Nevada side of the nearby Heavenly resort. The hotel—which on a recent visit demonstrated the kind of friendly attention to detail that far exceeds their four-star rating—also offers regular activities for families, from a daily board game hour to nightly s’mores sessions around the outdoor fire pit under the stars. The property also has a celebrated golf course and club, which are very popular during the warmer months.
An idyllic hour’s drive north, through the variety of lakeside communities lining the eastern side of Lake Tahoe, is Truckee, a historic logging town that’s also become the region’s most popular spot for shopping, dining, and general merrymaking. For those seeking ideal access to both goings-on there and a variety of different ski resorts on the north and western side of Lake Tahoe, Gravity Haus (three minutes from Truckee by car) is an excellent bet. The modern, dog-friendly hotel is the right kind of simple, with friendly, helpful staff and everything you need in the room (and nothing you don’t).
The hotel also operates as a wellness-and-workspace-focused members club (there are other locations in ski towns like Aspen, Jackson Hole, and Vail) with a well-outfitted gym and thoughtful recovery options, including hot tub, infrared sauna and leg recovery compression boots, and a large conference room for meetings. There is also an excellent on-site restaurant, Stella, which serves breakfast every day and dinner from Wednesday to Sunday. (The hotel also has a partnership with Ski Butlers, who will pick up and deliver rental gear.)
For those looking for the most direct ski access and highest-rated accommodations on the north side of the lake, the Ritz Carlton at Northstar is located mid-mountain, boasting a 17,000-square-foot spa and the popular restaurant Manzanita.
Where to Ski
Palisades Tahoe (formerly Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows, and the site of the 1960 Winter Olympics) is the largest ski area, at 6,000 acres, and has two distinct base areas, Alpine and Palisades, connected by a 2.4-mile gondola. Either base area offers access to four scenic valleys of trails, bowls, and forests with a range of terrain available to please any expert or beginner. Northstar California is slightly smaller, at 3,170 acres, but offers excellent skiing with long, well-groomed trails. (Note: if you’re visiting on a weekend or holiday and you’re not staying nearby, expect remote parking and shuttle bus rides.) Sugar Bowl is located on the Sierra Crest, only 10 minutes from I-80, with three peaks connected by fun trails (especially for intermediate to advanced skiers). Mt Rose is only a 25- to 30-minute drive from Reno: it is beloved for its expert-only “Chutes” and the high elevation that makes it generally terrific skiing, but beware the top runs on particularly windy days. Diamond Peak is located in Incline Village, and is a smaller, family-friendly spot—but with some of Tahoe’s greatest views.
The 4,800-acre Heavenly Mountain resort allows visitors to ski Nevada and California in the same day, with 34 miles of wide intermediate trails, seriously special views, and Tahoe’s highest summit elevation. (It also has the West Coast’s largest snowmaking system, which comes in handy when the weather hasn’t been complying.) Kirkwood Mountain’s high elevations and location atop the Sierra Crest often give it Tahoe’s deepest natural snowpack: the fact that it is a scenic hour-long drive from South Lake Tahoe can help limit crowds, too. The 2,000 acre Sierra-at-Tahoe, with its strong variety of park terrain and a half-pipe popular with Olympic champs, is a favorite of South Tahoe locals.
What Else to Do?
Spend an afternoon living out your James Bond fantasies in the backcountry: Lake Tahoe Adventures offers guided snowmobile tours through Hope Valley with jaw-dropping views of the Sierra Nevadas.
Snowshoes are available to rent at shops around Lake Tahoe, for use in areas including Tahoe City Winter Sports Park, Tahoe XC, North Tahoe Regional Park, Tahoe Meadows atop Highway 431, the Camp Richardson area, and Sugar Pine Point State Park.
Bad weather day? Head to Truckee for a taste of the Old West made modern thanks to an influx of zoom-based global nomads during COVID. Check out the three-room Museum of Truckee History right next to the Amtrak’s Zephyr line, and get a guided tour of the town’s history—from the harrowed crossings of the Donner Pass to Olympic sensation—through its memorabilia. Its founder, a Truckee native who started it as a COVID project, is often on hand for questions.
Where to Eat
Bistro Restaurant at Edgewood Tahoe: Upscale dining in a comfortable setting, with some inventive menu standouts and a good wine list.
Himmel Haus: A taste of Bavaria (okay, a very Americanized version) at the base of a Heavenly lift? Not a bad idea at all—and an excellent choice for a hearty apres-ski meal.
Basecamp Pizza: Starving after shredding the slopes? This is a fan favorite for inventive rib-sticking pies (think: Thai Chicken Curry Pizza) right by the base of the Heavenly Gondola in Heavenly Village.
Bert’s Cafe: Family owned and operated by a local Tahoe family, this South Tahoe favorite garners raves for its breakfast fare and friendly service (Bert himself is often allegedly on hand), namely fluffy omelettes and corned beef hash.
The Divided Sky: Excellent, inventive sandwiches and salads, located halfway between South Lake Tahoe and Sierra-at-Tahoe Resort.
Smoke Door: The newest and most critically lauded entree to the Lake Tahoe dining scene, executive chef Tyler Burges’ Smoke Door is a tucked away treasure located on the California and Nevada state line, near the site of the former CalNeva resort. A self described “saryo,” or Japanese tea house, Smoke Door’s exceptional Japanese cuisine is all centered around the idea of wood fire smoke. Opt for the 10 course omakase menu, and plan to ski it off tomorrow.
Great Gold: Californian cuisine meets Neapolitan-style pizza perfection a few minutes from downtown Truckee in this spot that’s popular with locals and visitors alike.
Moody’s Bistro Bar Beats: A bistro, a bar, a local nightlife legend (Paul McCartney once played here!)—Moody’s, right on the corner of Truckee’s main drag, has much better food (and service) than anyone who frequents ski towns and their accordant tourist attractions might expect. Hot tip: live music starts at 7:30 on the weekends, and the bar fills up a little after 5, so plan your reservations accordingly.
Tangerine: A bright, elegant, classic French boîte from the chef behind Great Gold that wouldn’t feel out of place in New York. A nice break from the pizzas and burgers of it all, should you so require.
Pianeta: A Truckee mainstay since 1998, Pianeta’s cozy Italian cuisine has made it a local favorite—and easy recommendation—for years. (It is also cleverly located next to one of the town’s most beloved dive bars, The PastTime Club, for easy apres-dinner planning.)
The Squeeze In: A beloved spot for Food Network-lauded brunch fare (keep your eyes peeled for omelets named for the network’s stars) with sticker-covered, Sharpee-scrawled walls and big groups buckling down for rounds of mimosas.
Jax at the Tracks: The platonic ideal of a classic American diner (really, the owner relocated a 1948 Kullman diner to Truckee in the early 1990s) serving excellent breakfast, lunch, and dinner, right along the train tracks that helped make the American West.