Famed for its merlots and cabernet sauvignons, Bordeaux’s most prestigious wine appellations are characterized by their position on either the left or right banks—and among the most prominent are the Médoc and Saint-Émilion. “Even if these two wine regions are extremely close geographically, they are quite different in reality,” explains Aymeric de Gironde, CEO of Château Troplong Mondot. “The Medoc is very large, going from [the city of] Bordeaux all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, which is more than 100 kilometers, and is divided in several appellations, like Margeaux, Pauillac, Saint Estephe, Haut-Médoc, and Moulis, among others.” Given the region’s vastness, the Medoc is home to large wine estates sometimes situated on up to 250 acres of land: “So you have to travel some serious distances between estates, making it feel more like a succession of large ‘chateaux’ surrounded by oceans of vine, which requires planning quite precisely in advance,” he explains.
This is why some wine insiders prefer visiting the smaller region of Saint-Émilion on the right bank, famous for its elegant merlots and offering arguably the most picturesque views of the Bordeaux wine country. Saint-Émilion is the oldest active wine appellation in the Bordeaux region and as it’s much smaller in size, produces limited quantities that are equal in quality to its neighbors on the left bank, making them slightly more exclusive and higher in price, and thus attracting a more intentional visitor. “When you are in Saint-Émilion or the neighboring appellation of Pomerol, everything is very close,” Aymeric explains, making it feel more intimate and accessible. “From my window, I can see more than 15 different wine estates. It gives more of a village feel, more the feeling of the French countryside.” If the Médoc is known for its large, expansive chateaux, Saint-Émilion is recognized for its smaller and more intimate, family-run wineries. “The fact that the medieval town carries so much history, and that you can walk the entire village and walk to most of the famous estates of the area by foot is quite unique,” he adds.
The historic, medieval village of Saint-Émilion is situated in the heart of the appellation surrounded by the region’s rolling hills, attracting culture-seekers interested in architecture and high gastronomy, as the village itself is littered with historic hallmarks, like the largest underground church in the world, as well as plenty of Michelin starred (and Michelin-adjacent) boltholes. Plus, fall is the perfect time to visit—not only for the brisk fall weather, sunny skies, and changing leaves, but for the season of fermentation when the grape juice turns into alcohol and begins releasing its unique flavors into the air, typically lasting through November.
Below, a guide to Saint-Émilion in the fall.
Where to Stay
The jewel of Saint-Émilion is Château Troplong Mondot, the first Grand Cru Class in the area, forming a 90-acre vineyard and 18th-century château and estate that sits perched on a hilltop overlooking the iconic medieval village of Saint-Émilion. The château, which is available for rent in its entirety (five rooms) underwent a renovation and refurbishment overseen by renowned Parisian interior designer Bruno Moinard, known for his work with the Dorchester Collection and Cartier, and was recently reopened in 2020.
Alternatively, guests can book the four guest houses scattered along the property, known as “The Keys” for a more rustic stay. Today, Troplong Mondot is a dynamic farm, a working wine estate, and a rural retreat with tailor-made experiences, like daily immersion vineyard tours, al fresco lunches where guests can sample old vintages, and truffle hunting during the winter months. If gastronomy and a central location are important, the Michelin-starred restaurant Logis de la Cadène is host to eight airy rooms and a guest house (Maison de la Cadène down the road) all swathed in bucolic furniture and decor and situated at the heart of the village.
At the edge of the village, you’ll find the newly opened Porte Brunet, featuring six modern rooms set in a 12th-century building. For antique lovers, boutique stay Clos 1906 is an 18th-century manor house-turned-charming bed and breakfast and antique shop located just a 15-minute walk from the village.
Where to Eat and Drink
Despite the small size of Saint-Émilion, there’s no shortage of exceptional restaurants; it’s a destination littered with Michelin stars and unassuming places with serious culinary offerings. If you’re staying at Château Troplong Mondot, you needn’t go far to get your fix of fine dining with their Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Belles Perdrix, situated at the highest point of the hilltop property. Much of the restaurant’s produce is sourced straight from the estate s permaculture vegetable garden, where Chef David Charrier and the estate’s gardener work together to ensure each ingredient is brought to life on the plate.
Travelers and locals alike love the Michelin-starred Logis de la Cadène, one of the oldest restaurants in the village of Saint-Émilion, which has become an institution for a menu that highlights the traditional dishes of France’s southwest, served in an elegant dining room. Another bolt hole surely on its way to a Michelin star is L’Huitrier Pie, where young chefs Camille Brouillard and Soufiane Assarrar are making their mark with technical and modern dishes focused on homegrown vegetables and local products.
At the pinnacle of the village near the bell tower, you’ll find standouts like the buzzy L’Envers du Décor, an upscale modern wine bar and bistro known for its regional French dishes using local produce at affordable prices, like its suprême de volaille and tartare de bœuf tranché au couteau. Try the pies at Comptoir des Arts, notably the tarte au citron meringuée, which is best enjoyed under their shaded patio, or head to Les Délices du Roy – La Cave for a drink. You also can’t leave Saint-Émilion without picking up a box of the region’s unique macarons at Fabrique de Macarons.
What to Do
After you’ve had your share of wine tastings, rent a bike and head into the medieval village for a tour of the underground church built into the famous limestone of the region. In town, you’ll also be able to explore the various galleries and wine shops dotted along the charming cobbled streets.
If you want to explore the surrounding region, take a road trip over to the left bank and spend the day having Cabernet Sauvignon tastings at the large Grand Cru Classe castles proliferating across the Medoc, or have a beach day at Soulac-Sur-Mer in the Medoc’s ocean coast. Another day trip worth exploring, and even closer to Saint-Émilion, is the city of Bordeaux, which is just 45 minutes away—and if you’re itching for that last dose of autumnal sun, venture an hour-and-thirty-minutes to the seaside town of Arcachon.
