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Every night, a group of women take out their skin-care tools. They use cleansers, creams, and overnight masks, then put on a bonnet, a mouth guard, a chin strap, and tape over their lips. They sleep on their backs, bodies slathered in oil, and when they awake, they hit record, revealing the removal process. The result? A fresh face that resembles a glazed doughnut.
Welcome to the morning shed, a new trend signifying our morbid desire to be “perpetually hot.” At least, except for those moments we’re in repose. On TikTok, the phrase morning sheds has gone viral with 75 million posts and counting. Though these videos may seem pretty innocent, is there something more sinister happening here?
With this trend, the goal is to take advantage of the time you sleep by adopting a routine that, upon stirring, has done the work for you. And while some parts of this routine are harmless (a silk hair bonnet, for example), others include potential risk. Mouth tape, which has surged in popularity because of its alleged ability to help with snoring or face-slimming, can also potentially lead to difficultly breathing and limiting oxygen flow (not to mention, the adhesive can cause skin irritation).
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Purvisha Patel says there is scientific evidence showing that occluded products can result in dewy skin, but she warns this trend is almost always “a recipe for disaster” without guidance from a skin-care expert. Active ingredients can become more concentrated if topped with a too-occlusive patch or balm and lead to a breakout, or diluted to the point of being totally negligible.
At the same time, Sara Botta, a licensed aesthetician and Ultraceuticals skin-care ambassador, says many of these products should not be left on the skin longer than directed and can end up irritating the skin. Yes, a good nighttime routine is important—Botta recommends retinoids, DNA repair products, and a moisturizer with scientifically proven ingredients—but the morning shed is taking routines too far. So why is this happening?
With the beauty and wellness industries merging, according to beauty critic Jessica Defino, we’ve recently seen more products focusing on maximizing sleep. “The thought behind this trend seems to be that because the skin does a lot of healing, repairing, and regenerating while we sleep, it must be better to use products and gadgets like peel-off masks, patches, and firming wear overnight,” says Botta. While Patel says these videos are gratifying, comparing it to our fascination with Dr. Pimple Popper, it’s all about the reveal. “We wait to see what’s going on under the layers; there’s gratification in the end,” she says.
Going deeper, people seem hooked on the idea that a healthier, more beautiful look can only be achieved if you use the right slew of products. Psychologist Dr. Emily Green says multistep skin-care routines do run the risk of becoming compulsive: “If folks adopting this trend come to feel that they must adhere to every step in a certain order, or can’t be flexible with the routine even if a given context makes it unworkable (e.g., you get home late or have an impromptu sleepover), it has the potential to create a lot of distress and start interfering with making the best overall choices in other parts of your life,” she says.
Ultimately, the morning shed promotes that perfection is only achieved through strict adherence to the multiple products and steps in a routine, which in and of itself can be unhealthy. Going one step further, this trend shows that there is not a single moment of our lives that hasn’t been commodified, says Defino. “There is not a single experience that hasn’t been co-opted, for the project of becoming as ‘beautiful’ as possible.” After all, the industry, which is set to grow by $80 billion this year, is famous for preying on insecurities, pushing us to believe we’re never enough and the answer is always more products.