Most of us have been operating under the rule that blush belongs on the high points of the cheeks. Or, maybe, on the apples—the most prominent part of the face when smiling—for a youthful glow. This is how our mothers and grandmothers did it, so naturally, we incorporated it into our routines as well.
But over the past decade, globalization and social media have reshaped makeup as we knew it. Lucky for us, there are tons of new techniques to challenge conventions and change how we use the go-to products in our makeup bags. One new favorite? Placing blush near the undereye.
If placing blush closer to the eye sounds weird, keep this in mind: makeup artists have been doing it for a long time. In the 1980s, everyone flirted with excessive blush. That aesthetic freedom has returned with force thanks to a trend from Japan: Igari makeup, which has evolved to become one of the most trendy techniques for applying blush so far this year. Scroll TikTok or Instagram lately and the trend is hard to miss. Makeup artist Ngozi Edeme, also known as Painted by Esther, has featured the distinctive approach in posts that have racked up millions of views.
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Undereye blush, the Igari way
The style takes its name from its creator, beauty guru Shinobu Igari, who popularized it in the late 1990s. Its hallmark is the strategic placement of blush under the eyes and across the upper cheekbone, creating a rested, flushed effect reminiscent of female anime characters.
Its popularity is easy to explain: in addition to brightening the face and suggesting healthier skin, it helps conceal dark circles and makes you look more awake. As expert makeup artist Adrian Rux explains, “pink under the eyes neutralizes greenish and bluish undertones. That’s why pink powders also work, as they provide a brightening effect.”
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Makeup artist Aimee Twist agrees: “Blush is having such a moment right now, the trends around it are constantly evolving. I particularly love this trend because it brightens the under eye area without relying on concealer, allowing blush to be the focus,” she says. “I like to use this technique as a way to bring the look together, as I find blush can soften even the most exaggerated makeup. It’s a fun way to experiment, while still being flattering on most people.”
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That last statement couldn’t be more true: it is flattering on nearly everyone. Case in point: celebs have been showcasing the look regularly. Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner—often with the help of Ariel Tejada—have also brought so-called baby doll blush to the lower eyelid area. Zara Larsson’s colorful, viral beauty looks by Sophia Sinot (above), along with subtler versions created by Nina Park for clients like Addison Rae, have also been spotted as part of the trend.
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How to get the look
To keep everything light and bright, Mario Dedivanovic, founder of Makeup by Mario, mixes concealer with blush for a diffused effect; Hailey Bieber did something similar with pink concealer in her Beauty Secrets video for Vogue.
Twist recommends using a light or medium pink, with an undertone depending on your personal preference for “something that feels soft and natural.” She says proper placement is obviously key: “I like to keep it to the outside of the face and stop around the middle of the eye, blending along the cheekbones and sometimes into the eyeshadow—if you’re wearing it. This ensures everything looks cohesive and doesn’t overtake the entire face.”
Of course, the strength of this trend really lies in its versatility. It is customizable, adapting to everyday looks with a touch of blush under the eye or to more elaborate routines that include color corrector, blush, and powder to intensify the effect. It seems that blush—and really all makeup—no longer has strict boundaries. Literally.
Have a beauty or wellness trend you’re curious about? We want to know! Send Vogue’s senior beauty wellness editor an email at beauty@vogue.com.