Food

The Place Where Mushrooms Get Their Own Parade

In the midst of a cross-cultural mushroom mania, we visit a festival where longtime fungi fans gather to discuss the latest in psychedelic, culinary, and medicinal mycology.

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“Their grandmother made all these costumes,” Portland-based Katie Fleming-Kim said of her daughters’ ensembles, “she put her heart and soul into these.”

Photographed by Caroline Tompkins
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Rather than costumes, some parade-goers brought along real-life specimens.

Photographed by Caroline Tompkins

It’s true that mushrooms (especially the magic ones) are having a moment. Earlier this year, Denver became the first U.S. city to decriminalize psilocybin mushrooms. Just last week, Johns Hopkins announced the founding of a Center for Psychedelic and Consciousness Research, which will “study compounds like LSD and psilocybin for a range of mental health problems, including anorexia, addiction and depression,” the New York Times reports. And while the medicinal powers of fungus are nothing novel to New Age gurus (Gwyneth Paltrow mixes a Moon Juice mushroom protein into her morning smoothie), they’ve now also reached the bros who are trying to optimize their lives (see: Joe Rogan). The mushroom trend is a bit like fungus in the wild: it’s everywhere once you start looking. The fashion brand STAUD based its Resort 2020 collection on “the feeling one gets from being on a mushroom trip,” and several zines on the subject have emerged this year. Phyllis Ma, a photographer who captured a set of sculptural indoor-grown and wild fungi for her forthcoming publication, Mushroom Friends, notes that “Mushrooms are beautiful and delicious—winning characteristics for popularity in the Instagram age.”