High Jewelry House Buccellati Feted the Opening of Their “The Prince of Goldsmiths” Exhibition During the Venice Biennale

On the Venetian island of Giudecca, running along the waters of a bustling canal, the monumental brick venue Oficine 800 now hosts “The Prince of Goldsmiths,” a glimmering, immersive retrospective of more than 100 year’s worth of jewelry, silverware, and decor from the Milan maison Buccellati. To celebrate the milestone opening, the historic high jewelry house invited a roster of international guests—from fashion figures and hoteliers to VIP collectors—for a private vernissage, complemented by a glamorous garden party, a black tie gala with a menu imagined by three-Michelin-starred chef Chicco Cerea of Da Vittorio, and a musical performance that placed pop star Mika and disco legend Gloria Gaynor on the same stage.

All of this was set to the buzzing art-world backdrop of the 60th Venice Biennale. “It’s an occasion to welcome people from all over the world,” Lucrezia Buccellati, co-creative director and fourth-generation family member to work within the brand, tells Vogue. “Venice is such a special city. The architecture of Venice has always been one of the biggest inspirations for our designs. That’s why we chose this moment to connect everything together and unveil this exhibition.”

Lucrezia—who was adorned with pieces from her personal collection, including sapphire earrings that her father designed and an ornate “honeycomb” necklace that her grandfather created—imagined one of the exhibition’s centerpieces: a spectacular butterfly-shaped brooch entitled “Buccellati Venezia Butterfly.” It joined three other butterfly masterpieces, each of which represents a generation and demonstrates the brand’s pioneering craftsmanship. This included one by her father, Andrea Buccellati, the current co-creative director and honorary president; another by Gianmaria, her grandfather; and the last by Mario Buccellati, her great-grandfather, the maison’s founder and a man referred to as the “prince of goldsmiths” by Italian poet Gabriele d Annunzio.

The celebratory gala dinner was hosted alongside the exhibition venue in a glass greenhouse large enough to accommodate five sprawling tables with Buccellati place settings tucked between overflowing bouquets of pink flowers. Day transformed to night as chef Cerea’s expressive dishes circulated—culminating with near-endless dessert options, including an unexpectedly luscious panettone and his signature cannoncini (a sweet custard filled treat).

Discussion throughout the elevated dining experience returned to the exhibition, produced by Balich Wonder Studio and curated by Alba Cappellieri, which runs through June 18—and how the tantalizing digital projections accented the delicate, jewel-encrusted pieces, crafted by Buccellati over the last one hundred years. Talita von Furstenberg, co-chairman of the Diane von Furstenberg label and a current ambassador for Buccellati, told Vogue that “the curation of the exhibition allowed it to feel like you were going through this family company’s handcrafted, wearable art. It’s so rare that such a prolific brand still has authenticity and family values.” Von Furstenberg wore an emerald Buccellati ring, along with one of their cuffs and pendant necklaces.

With four backup singers, a pianist, and a bassist, Mika took the stage after dishes were cleared and espresso served to regale guests with a series of hits. The electrifying singer-songwriter used a riff in a fan-favorite, “Love Today,” to introduce Gaynor, who arrived on stage in a dazzling red ensemble. The legendary songstress also sang through her chart-toppers, concluding the set—and the night’s festivities—with a bold rendition of her most beloved classic, “I Will Survive.”

As water taxis were called to ferry attendees off to their Venetian accommodations, guests lingered around the spiraling central staircase of Palazzina Fortuny, a historic mansion—once owned by the Countess Gozzi—furnished with vintage curations and new designs by its new owner, the gallery director and interior designer Chahan Minassian, who collaborated with Buccellati for another extravagant Italian affair, their Salone del Mobile exhibition in 2022.