Inside Vienna’s Stunning Christmas Markets
Vienna, where snow globes were invented in the 19th-century, doesn’t look quite like a snow globe—it’s even more magical. Intricate sparkling light displays hang between grand palaces reminiscent of adorned wedding cakes. Even beyond the Christmas markets, most street corners feature a mulled wine or punch stand where people huddle together under those same lights, wrapped in layers of wool as the sun sets.
Vienna always shines, but during the Advent season, it sparkles. Austrians often refer to the three-week period as the country’s “fifth season.” Festivities unfold in stunning squares and pedestrian spaces, making the walks from cafés to museums and shops even more delectable. Going to the Upper Belvedere to see Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss? Top off your visit with gooey Raclette at the market outside. Dropping into The Dorotheum, the famed Austrian auction house? A five-minute walk toward Stephansplatz brings you to the city’s towering gothic church, where glittering stalls wrap around it like a Christmas wreath.
The Austrian capital is a dreamy destination for a holiday hiatus, complete with layers of culture that elevate this place to the world s most livable city. Far from the hectic fury of Black Friday at home, I’m here listening in to the chatter of people from near and far, embracing the season to the tune of Mozart and Beethoven in the city’s squares.
If you’re planning a trip to Vienna during the holiday season, you’ll want to harness a mix of spontaneity and intentionality. Book a room at one of two locally-owned properties: Hotel Altstadt Vienna or Hotel Sacher Wien. Hotel Alstadt is unfailingly eclectic and deeply hospitable with designer digs laid out in a hotel that shares an entranceway with Viennese neighbors in the seventh district. Hotel Sacher, meanwhile, maintains the imperial grandeur of the former Austro-Hungarian empire at the city’s most prestigious address. Both hotels boast significant art collections, although with remarkably different looks at Viennese culture: one is an ode to its Imperial past, the other a testament to its more recent renaissance.
No matter your chosen perch, dress in layers and take to the markets. Vienna includes over 20 formal Christmas markets, although I can’t imagine trying to count all of the congenial punch stands or tiny booths tucked into alleyways. One day, I stumbled on a small group of stalls in a courtyard managed by a small church. I ate potatoes, which had been cooked over an open fire by a kind older gentleman, while I browsed homemade crafts made by the parishioners.
Do as the Viennese do and head to these markets in the early evening when the lights turn on and the day quiets down. Although I loved wandering through all the markets while glowing with the warmth of Glühwein (mulled wine), these were my favorites:
Vienna Christmas World on Rathausplatz
Rathausplatz is home to Vienna’s most famous Christmas market: an elaborate winter wonderland that sprawls in front of the dramatic, neo-Gothic city hall. More than 150 Christmas booths welcome you to an extravaganza of flair and spirit.
Vienna’s biggest Christmas tree stands majestically in front of the city hall, although it may not be the most popular. Make sure to walk over to the famous Herzerlbaum, too. This other Christmas tree is a giant maple adorned with 200 glowing hearts. In 2018, the city brought back the Herzerlbaum decorations after facing backlash in their decision to opt out of the beloved heart display.
For more romance, skate through two ice rinks joined by connecting ice paths under lit trees. (If you’re like me, and your ankles buckle in skates, opt for the ice curling instead.) There’s also a carousel and an old-school Ferris wheel for kids of all ages, which elevates this market to a festival worthy of a fictional North Pole.
Art Advent: Art Crafts on Karlsplatz
Every year, Art Advent springs up like a Spruce outside the Baroque Karlskirche (St. Charles Church). This arts and crafts market features the highest-quality gifts and goods. There’s a rigorous selection process, and only artisans selling their own products can participate. All of their food meets organic standards—there are even vegan options here, which is notable in the city of schnitzel.