Vogue Club Mens Fashion Recap June 2023

[bright music]

Hello, Vogue Club, and welcome

to our first-ever Menswear Fashions Week recap livestream.

My name s Luke Leitch,

and I m a contributing editor for Vogue Runway.

Basically, I write reviews, and I ve just,

along with my colleagues,

finished the last two weeks of menswear shows.

A few of us have come together today

to talk through the points that really struck us

about this season, and before we get on with it,

I want to introduce you to them.

First, let me introduce you to Thomas Delage.

Hello, everyone, so my name is Thomas.

I m the fashion and jewelry senior market editor

at Vogue France.

And on to Hugo.

Hi everyone, I m Hugo.

I am fashion, social, and video,

editor-at-large of French Vogue,

which means I deal with everything social and video,

and I come from a journalistic background.

And finally to Jose.

Hi, everyone, I am the fashion news writer

at Vogue Runway,

which basically means I write reviews as well.

In the trend reports, trend pieces,

and all those very fun things.

So gentlemen, thank you very much

for getting together today for this

after what I know as being quite a grueling few weeks

as the dust settles on the season that we ve just seen.

I thought we could start by nominating our top lines,

our headlines, and I m gonna start

with my fashion takeaway of the season.

And I m gonna start quite generically

with something that maybe doesn t get on social a lot

or get talked about a lot,

but is the overall temperature of menswear,

which is often about silhouette,

the shape of the man that the menswear creates.

And this season at Prada, at Rick Owens,

at Dolce Gabbana and others at Loewe.

I think to an extent at Hermes as well,

there was not a total shift,

but I think there was a confirmation of something

that s been in the wind recently,

which was a big shoulder, nipped waist, wider leg,

higher waist kind of a guy.

So he looks like a superhero, but it s with tailoring.

And I think

that possibly this move has come around for many reasons,

but I think probably the work of Anthony Vaccarello,

Yves Saint Laurent, has been a major,

major catalyst for that.

So that was the thing that I couldn t stop noticing

in terms of this is the weather,

but in terms of the smaller details

or the other details that you guys have noticed,

I d love to hear what you think.

Thomas, what were some of the things that you spotted?

So, yeah, first of all,

I would have to agree with you, Luke.

I think there was obviously

that sense of new shapes that we saw during the show.

And for me, like there were three trends

that I noticed in

Milan, Florence, and Paris.

The first one was that you could see in a lot of show was

like this transparent sheer,

kind of clothes,

in lots of different styles.

For example, like at Dolce and Gabbana,

they had full looks.

At Dries Van Noten, they had like tops and shirts.

There were also the jackets at Hermes

and it was also seen like at most of the shows

like Rick Owens, Ludovic de Saint Sernin,

Ami, Emporio Armani,

and, of course, Yves Saint Laurent.

[Luke] Absolutely.

What, sorry.

Absolutely, that was,

Cher was the big, big trend across the season.

Yeah, yeah, yeah.

And then we could see also, again,

I think this like utility trend that we saw, for example,

at Fendi where they showed actually the collection

at their Florence factory

and there were like a lot of cargo

kind of details in the clothes.

We saw that also at Givenchy,

at Prada as well.

And then in other shows like Hed Mayner, Junya Watanabe,

Sacai, Lemaire, Dries Van Noten.

So I would say this was another big trend of the season.

And then the last one,

I think the star of the season was were the shorts

in every length,

but also most of the time paired with Blazer jackets

as a way to do like formal wear in this hot weather.

And it was like,

some of them were barely visible at AMI,

so it looked like some were just wearing jackets

without pants.

And then Dries Van Noten also did a lot of shorts,

something more classic at Louis Vuitton paired

with high boots and then one over the waist at Prada.

And most of the collection actually featured these

high-waisted tailored shorts, which were really cool.

And again, at like most of the shows this season.

Yeah, absolutely, shorts were huge,

but they weren t always huge if you look at Hermes,

but they were the theme definitely

that went through everything.

Hugo, what about you?

What did you spot?

So I really wanted to, I mean,

what I noticed is obviously,

Pharrell and Louis Vuitton and I was thinking

with myself that we are witnessing some kind of shift

in the industry.

It s a wider shift than just a trend,

but most notably with Pharrell and Louis Vuitton, of course,

with fashion confirming that it s really becoming

an entertainment.

As in they are throwing those mega shows

for the world to see and to be entertained.

And as Mr. Bernard Arnault stated,

when he appointed Pharrell,

saying that Louis Vuitton is a culture,

I think it was very, very right,

because it s just more than fashion,

it goes beyond and it s all about the storytelling,

the show and obviously create a viral,

worldwide buzz online,

which I think they completely did brilliantly.

I don t know if it s good, if it s bad,

but it is what it is.

And it s almost, I feel like it s almost

as if today every fashion house is needed

to do some kind of celebrity coup

either on their front row or actually working in the show

to

exist

on

the internet, on social, and to have huge visibility.

On the other hand,

I really like the sustainable approach of Marine Serre,

which I think truly, truly innovative

and creative at the same time, which is not so common.

And she really proves that up-cycling,

up-cycling can turn into a desirable, edgy,

and cool fashion.

I really like her work with beach towels,

secondhand army garments, kitchen towels as well,

which I think were really fascinating.

But I will talk more about that later in our conversation.

No, I agree with you.

I love that show, and how she turned

very kitch objects into very strong pieces of uniform

for the night.

And actually also, she as well had a very strong,

not celebrity cast, but a cast of creatives

who are of a broader culture as well.

So, it reflected that trend that you re talking about

or not that trend, that shift.

And Jose, what?

Go on, go on.

No, no, no.

Just about to say like, she had idols,

a French, our famous French singer and Aron Piper,

the megastar from Elite on Netflix to work inside the show.

So even like smaller designer are doing it.

Yeah, Mikovel.

No, it was nonstop.

As to whether it s a good or a bad thing.

As you say, it is what it is.

But I think people will debate that for a long time.

I think there s a camp that will say it s a bad thing

cause it detracts from the purity of the focus

on the clothes and the design, and there will be others

who say it s good because it helps the houses live

in a attention economy

where people aren t just interested in clothes,

they re interested in

celebrities and they re interested in following individuals

as much as they are the labels.

But it s a moot point.

Jose, you re still in Paris as well.

Yes.

What been one of, or some of your big takeaways?

I think in terms of trends, I mean,

I agree with all of you and you ll see a lot of those trends

that you guys just mentioned in a trend report

when it goes live later, later this week.

But for me, the biggest sort of like trend was seeing

this combination of shorts, really short shorts and

blazers and jackets, which I find very interesting.

It s almost like a little boy suit, right?

I think there s a boyishness to menswear right now,

specifically when it comes to tailoring

and specifically with styling, that I find fascinating.

I think menswear over the last few seasons has gone through

a lot of changes.

We ve seen sort of like the queerification of menswear,

right?

Like Silvia Fendi with her cropped jackets in Spring 2020,

2021, I think.

And like moving forward,

we ve seen a lot of that happen in mainstream brands

and larger brands.

And now I think menswear is really,

fashion is really grappling with

the definition of mentor and the definition of the man,

right?

WHat does a modern man not only looks for,

but looks like today?

And I do think that if there s an indication this season is

that there s almost a bit of confusing.

Confusion, a lot of that comes from this boyishness

in the tailoring that I find fascinating.

But on the other hand, I think,

the biggest headline this season for me is

the entertainment of it all, right?

It s like fashion is spectacle.

Louis Vuitton and Kenzo taking over bridges.

I was a Jacquemus yesterday on a little boat

to go see the show at Versailles.

And all of these things to me are fascinating because,

at the end of the day, to see someone like Jacquemus do

that is like, it s not just the the big brands, right?

It s not just the conglomerates,

it s something that everyone is starting to prioritize.

And I am personally a bit more of a purist

when it comes to this.

Like, I love the Kiko Kostadinov show, for example.

Cause I was like, Oh wow, a show about clothes.

Like, I can actually see what you re trying to show me,

but I mean, I m easily entertained so,

I do go both ways.

I had a great time yesterday at Jacquemus,

but for me, that s the biggest headline.

The sort of idea of the spectacle of it all.

You can see the clothes online whenever you want them,

Vogue Runway app.

Like, at the end of the day, yeah, I ve got.

One thing about me, I m gotta plug the app.

But I think that s what s interesting.

Get on the app, guys.

Get on, yeah.

Although, we actually, yes?

I agree with you so much.

I mean, I just wanna,

it s interesting what you say about the boyishness

that I was struck by really a lot

cause she was talking about the gas on their great legs

by Veronique Nichanian at Hermes.

But it s like also,

people are asking,

customers, I hate the word consumers,

but people are asking men to start again

with tailoring in a way.

And it s like, sort of starting it as boys wear in a way.

It is quite a direct way of doing that.

And then the other thing just,

I d want to drop in based on what you said,

in discussion in relative to the quuerification of menswear,

but also, the status of menswear in a society

where gender boundaries are increasingly fluid.

Yeah.

Fashion is one of the only industries it remains

where you have a menswear and a woman s wear.

I mean, look at anything.

You can t segregate according to gender.

But because of the historical issues related to physicality

and production, we have separate fashion weeks.

We ve been talking about this for years, but now it s like,

it feels increasingly like there is a tension there

and it s an interesting one

cause it brings out interesting design, I think.

And that s just me absolutely talking too much.

So I m gonna move on to the next one,

which is most talks about fashion moment of the season.

And I was asked to suggest this one first and I think

that it needs no suggestion

cause it s obviously Louis Vuitton

and Pharrell Williams s debut.

They took over Paris, they closed Pont Neuf.

They had Jay-Z and indeed, Rihanna.

And Beyonce and Rihanna and so many other people.

And it was just insane.

So I d love to hear how it was for you guys

cause I think everybody kind of remembered it

and had a moment there.

But also, to go back to the point of how

it might affect our business and menswear shows, in general.

So, Thomas.

Thomas, sorry, forgive me for keeping and splitting the S on

when it shouldn t be there.

Thomas, je suis clair.

How was your night?

Well, I m gonna talk about my own experience

cause obviously we all have to agree

that it was definitely the most talked about moment of

this menswear fashion week.

But my most talked about moment of

this menswear fashion week was because of the fact

that Rihanna and ASAP Rocky came in late at the show.

They asked some editors to move

so they could sit them right in front of me.

So I ended up being on every single picture,

every single video of them at the show.

And so, everyone kept telling me about this, which was,

which became to be a bit annoying at the end.

But, yeah, that was my experience in the show.

And obviously, I mean, overall,

it was like an fantastic show in terms of like,

like everything they put together to make it happen.

Like the place was incredible on Pont Neuf.

The gospel that they had was incredible.

And I have to say the collection was

super interesting as well.

It was to me, like a great, very faithful

to the DNA of Louis Vuitton mantra.

Yeah, I think absolutely so,

but it was just amazing also that they had the intuition

to find the relationship

between the Damier checkerboard pattern

and something that everybody is, Gen Z understands,

which is everybody started calling it

the Minecraft collection

within 30 seconds of it hitting the runway.

And that was very interesting to me.

Hugo, what about you?

Well, I thought it was just like an experience.

It s not about just a fashion show anymore.

It was about taking a boat to go to the venue

and then enjoying the venue.

And like, also I thought,

Wow, what money can do?

You know?

Like,

who has ever

rent the Pont Neuf of in Paris?

I don t think it s been done before.

And it really showed the power of this house,

this mega house that s the most lucrative on earth,

I think,

at least in fashion.

And

yeah, I thought it was definitely interesting

to see how Pharrell was approaching

his job as a creative director.

And I m just curious to see what s next.

If it s gonna be always more.

Where are we gonna be?

What are we gonna be seeing next?

I do think it s something that,

in a way that has been initiated by Karl Lagerfeld,

maybe with the Fendi and the Great Wall of China

and then with Chanel every season.

And I do think Karl really set a model of entertainment

with fashion and now it s going to go on and on and on.

He was the first person in the industry to adopt

smartphones when they came out.

He used to give them away to everybody

who went into his studio for previews

and he was obsessed with them back in 2009 or 11

or whenever the first iPhones came out.

He was so obsessed with the future.

And I think he did see

that intermingling of the fashion narrative

in broader narratives and he tried to provoke it

with the incredible sets that he did all through

that decade at the beginning of this.

Jose, what about you?

What was your thoughts on Vuitton in your experience?

So, what s funny about Louis Vuitton is that

I actually wasn t here.

I got here the day after, so.

What?

I know.

Which is hilarious because I spent the rest of

the week hearing people talk about it.

But I think that because I wasn t there

and I sort of like, I m not like,

I m-- You didn t get for men.

Exactly.

And I m actually like slightly unimpressed.

I m like unarguably jaded.

But I think what s interesting about this is that

as since everyone had this sort of very specific experience

and they were like, this was insane.

I wasn t there so I m just kind of like,

I saw the live stream

but I just couldn t really see anything.

Like, I couldn t see Rihanna,

I couldn t see the clothes, I couldn t see a lot.

And I think that s what sort of entertaining

or like at least fascinating about this for me is that

on the other end, I was at Jacquemus yesterday, right?

So I took the little boat and I saw the celebrities

and I said hi to the girl.

It was like an entire sort of experience

and I had never been to a Jacquemus show before.

So I fully sort of like understood

how insane these productions are.

Like it s probably the biggest or the craziest show

I ve ever been, ever been to.

But-- Because you missed the song.

Right? Exactly, exactly.

So, but I think that s sort of what s interesting about

all of this to me is that at the end of the day,

I think fashion goes through like these periods of

mainstream pop cultural relevance

and we sort of last saw this in the 90s

where you had Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs,

who, by the way, last night had an interesting thing

to say about the show.

But you sort of had this massive moment

where designers were celebrities and you had all

this attention and the shows were still relatively

what they were.

And then, you had a quiet time, right?

And now we re back in this moment

where it s fashionist pop culture and I think a lot of

that has to do with the internet, right?

Like fashion is sort of like a hobby

to a lot of people,

talking about fashion more than anything.

It s a hobby to a lot of people.

It used to be mine to me before I started at Vogue.

So, I think that that really shows how fashion has evolved

and how it has become pop culture.

Jacquemus, for me, is the best example of that.

Like, this person that has managed to stay consistently

in at the center of the fashion conversation

for a generation, for Gen Z,

because of his capacity of continuously going viral

or being entertaining online is fascinating to me.

But to the point of what Hugo was saying is something

that I actually asked him on yesterday and I was like,

Okay, so you set the bar pretty high,

like once your show at sort of like a Versaille,

where do you, what else do you do, right?

Like how else do you sort of impress people?

And he said something that,

We ll see.

But he was like, it s not about doing it more and more,

doing like stronger and stronger and like bigger and bigger,

but about just having like an idea.

He s like, it has to be a different idea.

And that is sort of what matters.

I m curious about that because to an extent, yes,

but at the same time,

you don t put an idea on the livestream, right?

You put a drone going over Versailles into your runway

or over Pont Neuf in the background of LVMH Hotel

and on office so.

Well, it s true.

But then, Jose, you just said before that and it was,

I think it was really interesting to have that perspective

really as a byproduct of your travel arrangements.

But because you were not at Louis Vuitton

and you saw it on the early on the stream,

you didn t engage with it so much.

Exactly.

And, of course,

we lucky few are amongst the few

who have the privilege of attending loads of shows

and I think it s really interesting to consider.

We see how they go viral, we see on social,

we don t necessarily see the reality of the streams,

which I think are, when I do watch them,

I find deeply unsatisfying and all of Covid was very like,

tedious for that reason.

Cause it was like suddenly,

having eating white bread every day

when you d had been eating delicious food for years.

It was so dull, that experience.

But it obviously does translate

and I agree with you about the idea being important,

but there was an idea at Vuitton, cause.

Oh yeah, for sure.

Yay.

It was very like big capital letters idea.

But I, and who knows,

I suspect they re gonna try

and do something with the Eiffel Tower

cause nobody s ever had a show there before.

But logistically, it s a nightmare.

But that s the one that s crying out to be done for me.

Yeah, for sure.

Yeah, we re talking, let s not let Louis Vuitton,

amazing and wonderful as they are,

dominate the conversations.

What about,

let s just talk about some newer names

or some names you might not have the capacity

to bring in all of those people and do all of those things.

I mean, for me, none of these are new, new, new,

or one of them is maybe, but Eli Russell Linnetz at ERL,

he had his first show in Florence

on the last night of Pitti.

That was very interesting.

He s got, he s well equipped to I think become a designer

at another house if he wants to.

And he s an exciting name out of the west coast of the US

and I thought he fitted in very well in the scene.

Though I thought the collection needed more development

and possibly a bit more thought.

And then I just got to see Lagos Space Programme

who won the LVMH prize.

I thought he was super impressive with what he was doing,

talking about the globality of values in his own,

enclosed that speaks to his own culture,

but also his outlook

as a guy who s sort of wants to appeal to the world,

doesn t want to be culturally specific.

And he was very interesting about

whether it is appropriation to wear clothes from the culture

that he had drawn his designs from.

And he was adamant that it wasn t,

which I thought was quite interesting and refreshing.

And then finally, I saw a brand called Prototypes

that in Paris.

Which is a, basically, it s a very,

it s like an a completely different version,

but along the same kind of ecological lines of Marine.

It s all up-cycled but very, very creatively

but much more gothicly, I d say.

And that was a pretty cool young grungy brand.

Thomas, what about you?

What did you spot?

I mean, it s not new, but

I have a love affair for Wales Bonner.

I think it was only her second show in Paris

and I love the combination of perfect tailoring

and sportswear pieces.

There were also like these collab that s is ongoing collab

that she does with Adidas and like other pieces

with UGG that she did.

I thought it was really, I really liked the collection.

It s definitely on my wishlist for next summer.

And in other news,

there s this brand that s called Camper Lab

designed by Achilles Gabriel,

which is, it was super creative shoe brand

and they re launching into ready to wear this season

with a very small wardrobe,

which was reflecting some of the signatures from the house,

like this Tormenta sneakers

that they re showing at the moment.

Yeah, it was simple but efficient.

Great.

Hugo, what about you, sir?

Well, I do agree with you about ERL.

I think he is very much ready to take over a big brand

and also he has that experience with Dior,

but also he is been like meaning with success instantly,

I think, with his own label, whom I love.

But I

did spot Magliano who won the Karl Lagerfeld prize

at the LVMH Prize teaser.

Alongside Better.

And I do think this guy has a lot of talent.

It has this nonchalant Italian effortlessness like,

he is able to put on a scarf like that

and it really just look amazing.

And I think he s also very sensible.

I was very moved by his by his speech at the LVMH prize.

So I do think we re going to hear more

about him in the future.

Great.

No, I agree with you, Magliano it s very interesting.

He s caught in that trap between loving fashion

and not wanting to be all about fashion.

He s sort of a bit anti-fashion as well

and that produces very interesting flows, I think.

Jose, what about you?

You were in Paris, you lucky, lucky you,

this was your first season in Paris,

so, what hit your eyes there?

I mean, first, I also have to shout out Magliano,

like I didn t see it in person,

but I think because there s a very interesting point of view

when it comes to, we ve seen at this,

a very interesting thing in womens wear,

which is the sense of undoneness.

Like things are undone, right?

Like, they re almost like falling apart.

And I find that that s something very hard

to do in menswear.

Menswear is just buttoned up really.

So, it s interesting to see him do that.

Well, not completely right before the most part.

Especially right now that you see so much tailor

on the runways.

It s interesting to see sort of people start

to take it apart and Magliano does that well,

but I did see a few,

emerging brands.

I squeezed them in between the shows.

I love Namesake.

Namesake is super interesting.

They were actually semi-finalists in the LVMH prizes

here as well.

Super inspired by sports, basketball,

sort of a lot of like sports references

mixed in with tailoring.

That s sort of hybridization kind of vibe

that we saw sort of with Hood By Air and Telfar

at some point, evolving very specifically with sports.

It was funny, I talked to the team backstage

and they kept throwing all these sports references

and I m like, Girl, I m not the one.

You know?

Yeah, exactly.

I m like, Thank you, but I m gonna have

to do a lot of Googling after.

But all this to say like,

even for someone who doesn t really live that,

it s interesting to sort of see them be transformed, right?

Another one is one,

you actually recommend me go visit, look at Jeanne Friot.

Like, I think she s super interesting

in terms of like, perspective of sustainability.

She has super interesting work in terms of

denim this season.

She had a lot of manipulations, like she knitted denim,

then she beaded it with see-through sequins.

She sort of grabbed jeans and took them apart,

put them back together, merged them with tailoring.

She had this insane hoodie that was like

just sheer sequins which I found amazing,

was insanely heavy.

But I love sort of like her point of view

that feels,

there s an authenticity to sort being that crafty,

if that makes sense.

But what I love about it is that there s a lot of thought

into it and it feels finished.

It feels done right and.

And there s no tokenism in what she does.

It s a product of her identity rather than people saying,

I think we should do this

because that s where we should be.

She s like, No, this is who I am and I m in my early 20s

and I m this person and it all comes out in the clothes.

Yeah.

And speaking of authenticity, I think I love Arturo Obegero.

He s a designer from Spain.

I was actually just grabbing coffee with him earlier today.

He sort of worked at Lanvin with Bruno Sialelli

and like, he s done a few things.

Like, he s working in this suit for some time,

but he has this point of view on mentor

that is incredibly theatrical

and it s just sort of like fascinating.

Similar to Steven Passaro,

another designer who I saw this season.

Same, this very like demi-couture esque perspective

on tailoring.

And, but at the same time he loves to use AI and 3D

and it s sort of like,

I think there s a lot of exciting designers that I m trying

to keep an eye out as season goes by to sort of

fold them into our coverage.

Yeah, it s hard to keep an eye on them all as we know.

So,

let s be a bit more sort of staccato

with our answers so we can get to all of our talking points.

And the next thing, I suppose, going back to what you said,

Jose, about the livestream experience,

nominating what you might not have been able

to see on the livestream.

And for me, quite simply it was the heat,

which you can t see,

but you can certainly feel and that changes everything.

What else?

What about you, Thomas?

What was about the live experience

did you think was elusive?

I was gonna say Rihanna s perfume.

That just smells incredible.

And let me tell you that the rumors are true.

Thomas.

And Hugo, what about you, sir?

I really did love those Jonathan, JW Anderson shoes.

I think he s always doing a great job with shoes.

He has a designer named Abra, was it Abre,

He s doing the shoe of Loewe and JW Anderson.

So I love that.

And more specifically, Marine Serre,

the beach towel and the kitchen towel that she up-cycled.

Those other shoes that I tried on.

The beach towel and the kitchen towel shift cycled

with a truly amazing results.

I think it s creative, great,

desirable,

I mean, what else can we expect from up-cycling fashion?

She s just like,

and the work it takes to sort out all of the beach towels

and pick up the good ones.

I mean, it s just like really, really, really amazing.

Yeah, and the placement

and thought was absolutely brilliant in that.

And Jose, what about you?

I mean, the detail you can t see

on the live stream is most details.

I think,

as fashion, we re talking about this earlier, right?

But like as shows become bigger,

I find that cameras are zooming out instead of zooming in.

So you have a lot of like, Look at the bridge,

look at the Eiffel Tower, look at the palace,

look at the thing and you see all the drone shots.

But I m like, Where s the detail?

So, that s my take on this.

From the live stream, we can t really see

a lot of the things that you re trying to see.

No, it s hard, but it s like a mosaic, right?

You can look at all of people s impressions

and try and put together the picture,

like a sort of murder mystery.

And then onto casting

where we were asked who was our,

in respective favorite runway stars.

And my terrible problem is I m kind of,

I have suffered from model blindness,

but cause I m always trying to work out

what to say about the clothes.

But I do always think that Leon Dame is an amazing presence

on the runway.

So, I just love to watch him walk because he gives it,

he really inhabits those clothes in a particular way.

And I thought Alton Mason was amazing at Dolce

and sort of off menswear.

But Penelope Tree, he s an amazing model,

walked in Florence at the Luisaviaroma show

that Edward Enninful did

and she walked in Fendi a few years ago,

but Google her if you don t know her

and her history and it was just amazing to see her

on the scene.

What about you, Thomas?

It s gonna be something more personal.

Obviously, there were a lot of really cool

people working the show,

but I had a strong connection with my childhood

and superstar techno DJ friend.

Her name is Annetta

and she was working the Marine Serre show

for the very first time and she also DJ ed at the party.

Yeah, the party sounded like it was very, very good.

Yeah.

Did it go on late?

I think it was until midnight.

We left sooner but it was not that late of a party.

[Luke] Work, work, work.

And Hugo, what about you?

The model who worked the most shows this season?

14 in total.

His name is Mamuor Majeng and he s from Sudan.

Obviously, I think designer loves him

for his incredible features,

but I think he s also inspiring in real life

as he is on the runway.

Yeah, he just as like this incredible style that

just like look at the pictures that I have selected

and you will see what I mean is,

is really just great, amazing model.

Really, really unique.

And I also liked seeing the classic beauty of Kit Butler

clashing with Marine Serre, more underground energy.

Yeah. Kit Butler was kind of doing

a lot of shows a few years ago.

No, I agree that that

not truly, but in the old modeling sense,

mainstream versus edgy thing

when they collided was really effective and interesting.

What about you, Jose?

Who are your spots this season that made you stop and stare?

I mean, I m also a huge fan of Leon Dame,

but other than that, I am not,

we re talking about this at Sacai and I m not like,

at least it s a supermodel, models are not like my forte

but I will use this opportunity to say that

I find it increasingly frustrating to see

how young and thin menswear casting has reverted

to over the last couple of seasons.

I think there s only a few, a handful of shows,

one of them being LG and Luca Vanucci,

who really actually cast a wide variety of men

and people in their shows.

One thing about me, I m always gonna call that out,

it s some of my reviews as well, you can spot them,

but it is a big frustration of mine.

So, rather than spot any stars, I m just gonna complain.

Moon, moon, moon, Jose.

No, but I absolutely take your point.

I think it is important to be representative of

the totality of men in menswear

while also accepting the fact

that there s a whole lot of fantasy

and a lot of unreality in it cause it s supposed

to spark our dreams and desires,

but that shouldn t be linked to size and weight.

Then we were asked to nominate the runway trend

that will translate to the street.

And cause I m lucky enough to answer first,

I took the easiest answer,

which is that I already mentioned Damier,

simply because of the eye time that has landed upon it.

And I think people will,

whether consciously or unconsciously be wearing

a whole lot of check for the next six to eight months,

at least.

What about you, Thomas?

I m sorry, I m gonna speak about Vuitton again, but

to me, it s the Salomes are back.

It s the it-shoes from France s Vuitton Runway show.

They were paired with white socks with a little side pocket

and they re delightfully regressive.

It s the shoes we all wear as kids.

And they were, it wasn t the first to play

these like babies shoes.

They were seen at Prada,

they were seen at Loewe, at Gucci

or Margiela Maison seasons,

but they ve never quite made it to the streets.

So perhaps this time, they will have the Pharrell effect.

And I have to say, even myself,

I started to wear black loafers

with white socks again after the show.

It was a turning point for you.

That s showing the electricity of suggestion

that happens in the shows

that made you change your footwear habits the next morning.

What about you?

Have you found yourself dressing differently

after any specific shows this season

or spotted any trends that you think will carry on?

So, I did wore the white socks and loafers after the show.

I already had them luckily in my wardrobe.

But I do think the,

it s the trend we re gonna see in the street.

It s gotta be checkout pieces as you mentioned,

more specifically Damier,

but I guess any kind of checkout pieces as well spotted

that Loewe, that we can see here

Dior and, of course, Rick Owens with the denim.

[Luke] Yeah, completely.

I think it s just an easy thing.

It s enjoyable, it s easy

and.

Yeah.

No, absolutely right.

It s something that everybody understands

and this is very important

when you are operating on that global scale.

And Jose, what about you?

Have you changed your dress according

to any shows this season and also,

what trends did you spot, do you think?

I mean, I packed very tightly

so I wasn t able to change my dressing yet.

But I do love,

I have been doing a lot the white sock sort of dress shoe

kind of combo and that s definitely something

that will continue doing.

I felt like a freak for not wearing white socks

this season.

Right?

And, I agree with you with the Damier,

I think that s gonna be very interesting,

sort of the Minecraft of it all.

For me, it was funny that the moment

that Rihanna campaign dropped, everyone was like Minecraft.

But the power of pop culture in general and,

but I think in terms of trends,

I always find this fascinating.

Like every season, every men s season

I do a trend report and then I spend

the next sort of six months trying to see

if I m actually right.

A lot of times it s sort of like

an inside baseball conversation

where you re just kind of like,

the runway tends to be a very esoteric,

but something I do think we re gonna see a lot is

the short shorts jacket combo is definitely gonna.

[Luke] Yeah.

Gonna be this, this silhouette next spring.

I expect.

Yeah.

That early school uniform situation will

Yeah. Definitely be happening.

And then we ve talked quite seriously about fashion,

so I think we can relax and

talk what everyone wants to talk about,

which is celebrities,

so who, everybody really wants to talk about.

And I was asked to nominate best favorite, most enjoyable,

most surprising celebrity sightings at the shows.

And again, lucky me first to answer.

Bad Luck, gents.

But the surprising one was Brian Cox,

the great Scottish actor who is, of course,

Logan Roy in Succession.

He was at Loewe

and he said he d never been to a show before,

but that he had once,

I think he said he d once been in one wearing a kilt,

but it was a very complex,

it was a sort of very fast conversation.

But he was great.

And apart from that,

there s this guy who was at a lot of shows this season

who I met last year called Eric Nam,

who s a singer, who is a great guy

and I love his authenticity

and also the basketball player, Jaren Jackson Jr.

Went to loads of shows this time around

and I met him last season when he was doing his first shows.

And it was great to see him clearly engaging in a very,

I would say, sort of

interested and not just there for the clicks kind of way.

I like people when they come to the shows and you think,

Well, they re not just here maybe

cause they re getting bucks

or because they re getting clothes

but because they re passionate and they wanna see this.

And that s when I feel that we are not being used

as a celebrity backdrop.

What about you, Thomas?

Well, it s hard not to mention Beyonce and Jay-Z

at the Louis Vuitton Show.

They made quite an entrance and we were there with Hugo,

we were filming their arrival for social for Vogue friends.

So, we were there when she walked in with Jay-Z

and then Zendaya I was following.

So that was a bit of a starstruck moment.

And then the adorable real Little Mermaid, Halle Bailey,

at the AMI show, she was being very sweet,

genuine, smiling, polite.

It was very refreshing to see the celebrity act this way

towards everyone who was asking her questions

and she would just, she looked like an angel.

Oh, and she sounds like she acted like one too

rather than, so you weren t pushed out of the way

by any burley security guards?

No, no, no, no, no.

She was adorable.

Huh.

It s an unusually and positive experience.

And Hugo, what about you?

Well, I was more excited to see Successions Media tycoon,

Logan Roy, Brian Cox at Loewe, for sure,

right after somebody spoiled me the end of the last season.

I would not do that here,

but I haven t watched it all.

And somebody did that, but yeah,

he landed safely in Paris for the Loewe Show.

Spoilers are unacceptable always.

So Jose, I m not gonna spoil what answer you may have.

What?

Come on, you must have got excited to see

or to experience or to engage with someone,

perhaps he wasn t from fashion.

Fashion on the other shows this season.

Honestly, I think I love seeing Halle Bailey as well.

We, for Vogue, we actually did like getting ready

with me video for,

I actually just watched The Little Mermaid

and I was living cause I love the Little Mermaid

so I saw it with my friends the day it came out,

we had bought tickets a month ago,

so I m definitely that girl.

It s fun to see her.

So, everyone at Jacquemus as well.

I mean, I love, I m a big sort of,

David Beckham is one of my main crushes

and Victoria Beckham is one of my favorite girls.

So it was lovely to see them at Jacquemus.

But I will say my favorite,

my favorite sort of like Celebrity Sighting,

was actually designers at shows.

I was at the Ludovic de Saint Sernin show

and Olivia Hustini was there, Rick Owens was there,

Daniel Roseberry was there, it was actually really,

I was sat right in front of them.

And I mean I loved, like again,

this is my first season coming to Paris,

so I m a little bit starstruck continuously.

So it was amazing to sort of like see these people

whose work I ve been following for so long.

So yeah, I think those are sort of my faves.

I also love it

when you see other designers coming together

in a spontaneous and collegiate fashion

to support each other.

And sometimes it s fake and sometimes it s real.

But I think in the Saint Sernin case, it was pretty real.

Yeah, I mean they post, it was like I was,

it felt like actually sort of community really.

Because far too often, houses behave like

they re the only houses in the world

and they ve got the only shows on at Fashion Week

and they live in this kind of fantasy land

that there aren t 10 other shows that day.

So when those things intermingle, it s fantastic.

Gentlemen, thank you so much for going through our points

and we ll sign off shortly.

But before we do,

we have had a question from one of the Vogue Club Members,

Jamie Papatses.

And Jamie, I m sorry if I got that totally wrong.

I m being really bad with names today.

Not enough sleep in the last two weeks, but Jamie asked,

How do you think menswear will continue to evolve?

And I m gonna disregard the order of before,

because obviously, I don t have a prepared answer

and I m gonna give Hugo the bullet.

Hugo, how do you think menswear will continue to evolve?

I think menswear will continue to evolve in a bigger way

because if you think like 15 years ago,

10 years ago, it was very, very small

and it became such a big thing.

I have seen it firsthand because I was working at Vogue

for 10 years and honestly, the industry is getting bigger.

Obviously because men are more interested

in fashion nowadays, I guess.

I guess every young guy is interested.

Almost every young guy is interested in fashion,

which wasn t necessarily the case before.

And every major house has some kind of exciting designer

at its creative direction,

which is a major shift from a few years ago.

And now, we have Pharrell and like it was big, big, big,

big thing in the menswear industry.

So yeah, I think it s gonna get bigger.

Thomas, what s your instinct?

I mean, I would have to agree with Hugo a hundred percent.

I mean, and also I think especially now,

at the time of like everything goes viral instantly,

there s like the exposure gets,

fashion gets so much more exposure than it used to before.

And they re also blending the genres

between womens wear and menswear during all of these shows.

You had different silhouettes,

which is funny cause I just read this morning,

I think it was on BOF or I can t remember where I read it,

but it might have caused some troubles

to Nicola the fact that Pharrell did

that many women s wear silhouettes in this show

cause he s the one normally designing women s wear.

So yeah, I think it like you said,

it s gonna get bigger and bigger.

Well, as Pharrell said in one of the previews,

he designs for humans and he didn t want to be

too gender specific,

but, of course, the brief he was given was men.

So you re right there.

And Jose, what about you?

What s your evolutionary theory?

My evolutionary theory?

I m just curious to see how fashion

sort of redefines masculinity in today s perspective on men.

I m very curious.

I think, again, we sort of mentioned

this idea of fluidity and the queerification of menswear

and fashion, in general, from a few seasons ago.

It almost plateaued by now.

We see actually a lot of brands that are starting

to split their shows back again

to have men s and women separately.

Valentino did it this season in Milan.

And on the other side, I think some,

the boyishness of it all,

like all these things for me are fascinating, right?

Like,

as I m very curious to see how we continue to define

what a man is in fashion and specifically what they desire.

I think it was actually a really good example of this season

because there is sort of this tension

between this tradition of men

and how to push those boundaries, right?

You have a sheer jacket,

you have the tiny, tiny, tiny shorts.

It feels like almost a combination of

all these things, right?

There s a little boyishness, there s a little queerness,

there s a little sort of like flamboyance

to it more than queerness.

And, but at the same time, it s clothes

that you re familiar with.

And I think Dries also did that very interestingly.

So that s what I m,

that s an evolution I m following closely,

sort of in the most commercial or perhaps the most authentic

to the customer or client.

How do we redefine men and masculinity

in the aspect of design?

And I think that s part of a broader conversation

that s going on according to which society you live in.

Because all of you know, this is a global industry.

Every society has got its own absolutely nuances

and certainly its own state of like,

gender situations and qualifications.

But I agree with you utterly, I mean,

I m just surprised and nothing against tailoring,

but I m just surprised that tailoring continues

to be at the center of the conversation.

And how tailoring is like,

it s like the Madonna of fashion.

It constantly reinvents itself and comes back

and it s like, it s all about tailoring

and we kill tailoring every three years.

We go, Oh, there s a recession.

No one s wearing tailoring anymore.

So, I m interested to see how streetwear has come

and grown up and is being intermingled.

And you see all of these brands and individuals

who came up in the 2010s, suddenly doing tailoring.

And why is tailoring the high church of menswear

when it s normally clothes that you have to wear socially.

So, I m interested to see what new forms of

clothing templates come for men,

because I think that we don t have enough tools,

actually enough wearable tools.

I d like to, like we need new words to discuss

some of the issues you were discussing, Jose.

I think we need new, new, new signifiers in clothing,

new forms of dress to reflect new forms of society

to sound super pretentious, as I want to say.

Gentlemen, thank you very much.

I think this was a pretty effective first test

for the post menswear week, livestream run through.

Thank you so much for getting together for this.

And I suppose all it remains to say is that,

really looking forward to seeing you in January.

Same here.

Thank you.

Thank you, Thomas.

Thank you, Hugo.

Thank you, Jose, very much.

Thank you, Luke.

Thank you, Hugo and thank you, Jose.

Everyone, I appreciate it.

Good day, Thomas.

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