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My bathroom cabinet is a mess. I’ve dedicated the entire space to haircare items—brushes, combs, heat protectants, serums, oils, and styling products. Still, my hair is a lot like that cabinet—a mess. Dry, brittle, untamable, and greasy all at once. What gives?
After a chat with hair specialist Helena Rodero and a thorough read of her book All About Your Hair and Skin, I’ve been able to pinpoint exactly what’s causing my hair problems—and also, how to fix them. Turns out layering on all the hair products in the world can’t fix a head that’s suffering due to bad habits. Read on to find out what I learned and the top five signs your hair might need a little help, too.
Sign 1: Flakey scalp
Rodero says “a flakey scalp” is one of the most common issues her clients complain about. It’s also one of the most misunderstood: Most people think the flaking is caused by dry scalp, so they wash their hair less frequently. But this doesn’t get to the root of the problem. “Dandruff is caused by a fungus called Malassezia furfur, which lives on our scalp,” explains Rodero. “The problem appears when the fungus increases, causing an imbalance in the microbiota and giving rise to dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis.”
Washing our hair less actually only makes it worse, because it allows the fungus to grow out of control, thus increasing flaking. “We should wash daily or every other day—this will significantly reduce the problem,” she advises, and recommends shampoos that treat seborrheic dermatitis. These products contain ingredients that regulate sebaceous secretion up to a certain point (controlling it completely is very complicated) as well as keratolytic ingredients that help cleanse the scalp.
“The most commonly used active ingredients to treat dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis are piroctone olamine, ciclopirox olamine, selenium sulfide, and salicylic acid; They can appear alone or in combination,” Rodero explains, noting that according to clinical trials, the most effective ingredient is piroctone olamine. Look for it first in your anti-dandruff products.
Sign 2: Greasy scalp
You’ve probably heard that the best thing to do for oily hair is to wash it sparingly to regulate the oil, right? Wrong! Oily hair, as Rodero explains, is largely dependent on our hormones—which is precisely why it can be so complicated to control. Additionally, washing hair less can compound the problem: “It can cause seborrheic dermatitis to appear, which is a type of dandruff that is more oily,” Robero explains. “Then, it remains embedded in the scalp in the form of small yellow plaques.” This is why she recommends washing hair frequently instead, alternating between a shampoo for oily scalp and one that is more gentle.
If your dealing with a too-greasy scalp, it’s also a good idea to avoid overusing scalp exfoliants. “The problem arises if they are very aggressive or come in the form of sugar or salt granules, which damage the hair root. If you do want to exfoliate the scalp occasionally, it’s best to look for active ingredients such as salicylic acid or alpha hydroxy acids (like glycolic acid or lactic acid) on the label. Make sure the product doesn’t contain granules—especially if you have an oily scalp or seborrheic dermatitis,” Robero says.
Sign 3: Widening hair part
Thinning hair is a sign that your hair needs help—though it’s often easy to ignore. We blame it on the season or aging, when in truth it can be the sign of a serious problem such as androgenetic alopecia. “Waiting is a big mistake, because if treated in time it is reversible,” Rodero warns. “However, it requires a specialist—a dermatologist or trichologist—to provide adequate treatment.”
A trichologist can determine whether the problem has to do with chronic hair loss, nutritional deficiencies (iron deficiency is the most common), or a related disease. Rodero also describes two other culprits: hormones and stress. “The hair follicle is a very sensitive organ because it has a lot of cellular activity, yet is not a priority. When the body is focused on other stresses, it focuses nutrient availability on that.”
Sign 4: Dry, splitting ends
When my ends feel dry, I usually use products that promise to repair my ends. But Rodero says that split ends and breakage don’t have a solution—other than a haircut. “You have to cut them off and start from scratch with a better hair routine,” she says. “This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use products, but it’s more about prevention than repair.”
Rodero says there are different kinds of damage: mechanical damage, environmental damage, and chemical damage. Mechanical damage happens often without us realizing it—like, when we wash our heads by scrubbing at the hair. “Remember not to rub the fiber; slide your fingers into the scalp and rub in the same direction without making circles,” she advises. Also, limit the amount of time you actually spend washing your hair, as water weakens it. “This phenomenon is known as hair fatigue—it is as if the hair is exhausted by the continuous flow of water in and out of the scalp,” says Rodero.
Those little white dots on the ends of your hairs are called trichondrosis, and they indicate a future breaking point. “It is caused by damage to the cuticle. As keratin—which is much weaker—is exposed, strands end up breaking much more easily,” says Rodero.
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Sign 5: Frizz
When that annoying frizz appears, we often blame the hair dryer. So, let the hair air dry. That’s also a mistake: “What this does is make the hair weaker and break more easily, which in the long run actually produces more frizz,” notes Rodero, who recommends blow-drying at low temperatures and at a safe distance of about 10 inches. “If you have straight hair, you can dry it in the direction of the ends with high speed—this greatly improves the quality of the hair. Always avoid going to bed with a wet head, since moisture can weaken the hair or lead to seborrheic dermatitis,” she notes.
For curly hair, the best thing to do is to dry at medium power with a diffuser. “If you also want to improve the volume, you can dry it with your head upside down or, if you find that uncomfortable, scrunch it with the diffuser, bringing it closer to the root and leaving it until it starts to dry,” Rodero says. “It’s important not to keep moving the diffuser to avoid frizz.” She also says that curly hair is more prone to frizz and thus should be treated as if it were fragile or damaged hair. In other words, with the utmost care.
