For those of us with afro-textured hair, protective styles—like boho braids and locs—are an investment in our hair health. Due to the delicacy of our coils, regular hydration, detangling, scalp detoxes, and trimming are all daily concerns. By gently twisting or braiding your natural hair, some of that time previously devoted to maintenance is freed up, plus, your precious hair is shielded from environmental stressors, like the sun and pollution.
In the past three years, ’90s-inspired pick-and-drop knotless braids like boho braids, French curl braids, mermaid braids, and Bora Bora braids have become all the rage. Think Brandy in the teen sitcom Moesha, or Beyoncé in her Destiny’s Child days.
Boho braids are slightly more complicated than some other braiding styles, as pieces of curly extension hair are “picked” out of the braid formation in order to create a set of waves that cover your head from top to bottom. The final look is floaty, chic, and feminine, but there is one catch: unless properly maintained, boho braids can quickly become a tangled nightmare.
To help you with caring for your boho braids this summer, we consulted three experts: Charlotte Mensah, founder of Hair Lounge; Shayna Dawes, founder of Braid Bar LDN; and Silas Baiden, cofounder of Ama Hair Salon, and asked them to share their wisdom.
Invest in quality extensions
While synthetic extensions are useful for a range of protective styles, the pros recommend that you opt for quality human hair when installing boho braids. “Poor quality extensions can irritate your scalp and even cause your natural strands to break underneath,” Mensah warns. They’re also prone to knotting, matting, and tangling.
“Boho braid installation and take-down is expensive,” Baiden adds. “Buying premium hair is cheaper for clients in the long run – especially because the hair can be reused if cared for correctly.”
Always ask your braider what hair they’d like you to buy before confirming your appointment. If in doubt, book in with a professional braiding salon, which will give you the option of having high-quality hair included within the fee.
Patience is key
To keep your tresses neat and intact, set aside time in your daily routine for aftercare. “Be gentle when brushing your hair and ensure that you focus on each braid—rushing can cause the hair to knot and tangle further,” Dawes says. A little extra effort is more than worth it for the results, though. “The styling options are endless, and boho braids are so easy to manage, once you have the hang of it.”
Don’t skimp on the sleep prep
“A stringent night routine is crucially important,” Mensah says. “Grab some of the Manketti Oil Pomade, emulsify the product in your hand and apply it to your boho braids. Next, gently brush it through each of the strands.” As a final step, part your hair into two to four sections and braid or twist each one, before wrapping it all up into a silk scarf or bonnet.
Bigger isn’t always better
Opting for boho braids that have fewer curls might be the ticket to tangle-free hair. “As a rule of thumb, the more curly hair that you use, the more difficult the aftercare will be,” Baiden points out. “You may find that you have to treat full boho braids with water and a leave-in conditioner twice a day, for example.” This is obviously incompatible with a busy lifestyle. Baiden explains that braids without loose ends last much longer than pick-and-drop styles, so minimising the amount of free-hanging hair is important.
Be wary of bright colors
“Color is much harder to maintain,” explains Dawes. “Hair that has been bleached and treated with dye is more susceptible to damage caused by the elements.” This includes breakage caused by hot and cold temperatures, as well as a lack of moisture.
Be picky with your products
The boho braid tool kit is pretty set in stone. All three experts agree that you need a comb and a bristle brush in your arsenal as a starting point, as well as a hydrating shampoo and conditioner, and a leave-in conditioning spray.
A special pro tip is to mix a little leave-in conditioner with lukewarm water and a few drops of oil. You can apply this during the day for a refreshing top-up, and it will also leave your hair looking glossy and shiny, but not greasy.
An SOS detangling guide
If you’ve stumbled across this guide and your hair is already looking tangled beyond repair, the experts have a few tips.
- Start by gently finger detangling each braid, which will help to curb any shedding and prevent the hair from knotting further.
- Comb out each strand, starting from the bottom and snipping out any knots that cannot be saved.
- Brush through the hair to ensure that it hangs freely and is no longer matted.
- Wash and condition the hair (you can also spray it down with a hydration mist and leave it to air dry if your hair is already freshly washed).
- Add in your leave-in conditioners and nourishing oils.
It’s always advisable to visit your braider or a salon if you’re in need of an extra helping hand.
Try a hybrid hairstyle
There is a cheat for boho braids, literally referred to as “secrets” in Ghana. The method involves weaving bundles of curly hair in between rows of braids to create the illusion of thicker, voluminous waves. “It’s really effective if you have shorter hair, and it s so much quicker to install,” Mensah says.
“We’ve noticed an uptick in hybrid styles, where clients request a curly weave in the back, with a single plait leave-out at the top,” Baiden adds. “Championed by trendy influencers and It-girls, this method is perfect for those with thinner hair and is a shortcut to creating a low-maintenance look, complete with lots of fluffy curls.”
Mensah agrees, adding that human hair being more accessible has contributed to the pick-and-drop boom. “Hairstyles with longer lengths and varying textures have also soared in popularity, opening up a sea of creative and practical hybrid options.”
Have a beauty or wellness trend you re curious about? We want to know! Send Vogue s senior beauty wellness editor an email at beauty@vogue.com.