Dreadlocks, also known as locs, can be traced back through history for thousands of years. In Ancient Egypt, for instance, synthetic wigs made from a blend of palm fibers, wool, and human hair resembled a full crown of locs and braids. More than just a hairstyle, “locs are a symbol of spirituality, freedom, cultural identity and for many, a way of life,” says Charlotte Mensah, the award-winning hairstylist and owner of Hair Lounge. “Mami Wata, a well-known figure in West African folklore, is a water spirit with long, twisted hair. According to the Igbo ethnic group, who mainly hail from southeastern Nigeria, Mami Water is an utterly ethereal beauty. Her hair, known as ‘Dada’, represents abundance, fertility, and sexuality.”
On the Caribbean island of Jamaica, Rastafarians believe in a principle of balance, called “livity.” Wearing your hair long in a natural and minimally manipulated style is an important element, as is maintaining a vegetarian diet and dressing in colors associated with Pan-Africanism: red, green, gold, and black.
For Ama Hair Salon co-owner Ama Safo, embracing her natural coily hair through different modes of expression, including locs, was the key to discovering her vocation. “When I first came to the UK from Ghana, I was struggling to find my passion,” she says. “My Jamaican friend loved how I did my hair and suggested that I could also share this talent with other people. I started off renting chairs in barber shops, which was quite challenging at the time, although it motivated me to dream of having my own salon.” Now, locs are one of the most popular services at the salon, which opened in 2001, with barrel twists and double twists among the most requested styles. “Prior consultations are essential,” Safo notes. “We usually recommend low tension styles that won’t pull on the edges too much, because we find that over-styling contributes the most to any thinning or breakage,” co-owner Silas Baiden adds. It’s this sort of expert know-how and experience that has really put the Tottenham salon on the afro haircare map (clients include Ncuti Gatwa).
Everything you need to know about starter locs
Different techniques are used to achieve the desired effect. At Hair Lounge, starter twists and bohemian faux locs are the go-to styles. Extremely versatile due to their long and thin shape, curly strands of braiding hair extensions can be added for extra texture.
Comb coils are an ideal starting point for 4C hair that’s two to three inches long. “To create this look, a pencil-sized loc is formed by twisting small strands of hair around a twist comb,” explains Mensah. “There are a few key points to note when creating comb coils. First, the longer the hair, the longer it will take to loc. Secondly, the coils can react to water, and if you have soft hair, contact with water might cause the loc to unravel.” Mini twists and braids are other starter loc options, as well as instant locs, where the hair is sectioned and tangled into a semi-mature loc using a steel crochet tool.
The next stage is often the bit that requires the most discipline and effort. “During our starter locs consultation, we explain to clients how often they should interlock their hair—the process whereby new growth is maintained,” says Baiden. “We usually recommend doing it at four to five-week intervals, followed by every six to eight weeks once they’ve matured—but this can differ from client to client. It usually will take a while for locs to bind and build their true form, looser hair texture may need some extra help via crochet needling or interlocking to reduce budding (fuzz and loose hair around each loc). Crucially, those getting starter locs should know that they shouldn’t wash their hair too soon after starting locs, to prevent them from unbinding or losing their form.”
“Extensions will allow the hair at the root to grow,” Mensah says. “If you’re after a specific aesthetic then extensions may help you achieve it. What really matters is how you feel about it, and extensions can still provide a safe way for hair to grow as one starts their loc journey.”
However, extensions may not always necessarily stay in place, due to the tension and difference in texture. “For this method, it is especially important to have a consultation beforehand and to ensure that the right kind of extensions are used – which should always be human hair for long-term use,” explains Baiden.
If you’re contemplating locs, see below for some hairstyle inspiration.
Microlocs and Sisterlocks
The smallest locs of all, microlocs and sisterlocks take the longest to install, are more difficult to maintain, and are also the most costly. Dedicated wearers devote copious amounts of time and effort to looking after their hair—the pay-off is the incredible versatility. Dr. JoAnne Cornwell created the Sisterlocks system in the 1990s, “a method involving a special tool that locks the hair,” explains Baiden.
Natural Bohemian Locs
Think traditional locs injected with your own personal style. Lisa Bonet, who accessorizes her wavy locked tresses with interwoven rows of long braids, statement hats, and, more recently, color, is the pin-up for this look. A similar style is goddess faux locs: “Natural hair is braided or twisted as a base and then synthetic hair is wrapped around it, creating a long, wavy mermaid-like look,” shares Mensah.
Freeform and semi-freeform locs
Often viewed as the lowest maintenance loc style, freeform locs see the wearer cede control to the natural way in which their hair grows and moves, creating a totally unique look. “Many clients that I see with this style actually started it themselves. It involves starting some sort of twist formation and then allowing the hair to do its own thing. Many freeform clients still have a vision of how they want their locs to look, so if necessary crocheting can steer the hair into a specific direction,” says Baiden.
When creating this look at home, after washing, “condition section your hair into the size you want your locs—usually, smaller sections will create thinner locs and larger sections will form into thicker locs”, suggests Mensah.
Faux locs
Faux locs mimic mature locs with length. Natural hair is braided or twisted underneath and wrapped with synthetic hair for a thicker, full look. “Faux locs are a great way to try out the look of locs without the commitment,” says Mensah. The options with this style are truly endless, curly hair added to the ends for added texture is a popular choice.
Jumbo twists
Perfect for starting natural locs, with jumbo twists the hair is divided and twisted from the root to the tip. Requiring slightly less commitment than the above styles, before the jumbo twists mature, it can be combed out and styled as an afro once again.