On TikTok, you’ll find a ceaseless barrage of beauty trends lighting up your screen, burning brightly then quickly fizzling away in favor of the next shiny thing. Yet many of the seemingly new ideas that turn up on the platform are simply reframes of tried-and-true methods, explained with the curiosity and excitement of a BFF who is so excited to share their I-just-discovered-this! secrets with you. So, when antithetical ideas like ‘skin streaming’ and ‘skin flooding’ gain simultaneous popularity, breaking them down is key.
To that end, here’s the real question: Are you a skin care minimalist or a skin care maximalist?
Let’s start with definitions. “Skin streaming” is all about streamlining your routine with a tight curation of products that address multiple needs. Conversely, “skin flooding” calls for a layering of products (particularly those featuring hyaluronic acid) beginning with mists and serums and rounding out with an emollient moisturizer for maximum hydration. And according to dermatologists, there’s no need to commit to one camp—both options are beneficial depending on your skin situation.
“Skin streaming is truthfully what most dermatologists recommend day to day—you want to limit your products to powerful actives and simplify the steps to help with results and consistency,” says Los Angeles-based dermatologist Dr. Chris Tomassian. “Skin flooding, on the other hand, is really meant for those with very dry or dehydrated skin.”
After a decade or so of excess, even the most practiced skincare enthusiasts (including several Vogue editors) are ready for a minimalist reset. Dr. Whitney Bowe—the dermatologist behind “skin cycling,” another viral treatment trend—prefers a streamlined approach to skincare. “As the dermatologist who coined the term skin cycling, I see skin streaming as another term to encourage people to use fewer products in a way that is more thoughtful and deliberate, so I’m in favor of it, so long as the few products that are used are really well-formulated and clinically proven to drive results in the skin,” says Bowe. “Simple should refer to the number of steps, not the expertise that goes into each product’s formulation.” For her part, Bowe relies on a gentle cleanser, vitamin C serum, and SPF in the morning, then cycles between exfoliation nights, retinol nights, and recovery nights to nourish her skin barrier as needed.
Putting the effects to one side for a moment, skin streaming requires far less effort than what Bowe calls “kitchen sink skincare”—exemplified best by the 40-step routines we ve all seen, and that some of us still favor—allowing you time to direct your attention (and dollar) to other priorities. “Skin streaming is ideal for the average consumer, as it will increase the likelihood for them to stay consistent with their routine and see results,” says Tomassian. “However, if the skin becomes too dry or dehydrated, it would be a great idea to include a couple of days of skin flooding into your routine.”
Dermatologist Dr. Karen Kagha, whose practice is also based in L.A., notes that skin flooding can be particularly helpful in certain seasons, while traveling, and for those who make their homes in drier climates. “For some, simply using a moisturizer won’t be enough,” she says. “During winter, I like to layer humectant-rich serums such as hyaluronic acid under a thicker moisturizer to seal in the hydration. The end results are amplified.”
For a successful skin flooding session, choosing products carefully is key. “One of the biggest problems we see in clinic is product overuse,” says London-based dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto. “This was exacerbated during the pandemic when many people used far too many actives and ended up compromising their skin barrier.” But if both formulations and order of operations are taken into consideration, skin flooding can actually restore the skin barrier. The correct application order (thinnest to thickest) is essential, as is patience: allowing ample time for each product to penetrate before moving on to the next layer will prevent pilling and clumping. “I recommend using a combination of high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid serum,” says Tomassian.
The most important takeaway here? Viral skin care trends aren’t going anywhere, but you’ll only know what truly works for you by trying it. “Skin health is personal, and learning to listen to your skin is going to be more impactful than any trend,” says Bowe. “Not every trend is for every skin type, and if you have a skin condition like acne, rosacea, or psoriasis, it’s important to speak to your dermatologist about what will work best for your skin.”
“No skincare routine will work if you don’t work it,” adds Kagha. “Tailoring skincare to suit your skin needs, as well as one that you can keep up with based on your lifestyle, is important for desired results.”
Listen to Vogue’s Arden Fanning Andrews talk more about skin streaming in this episode of The Run-Through here.
