There’s nothing quite like the mini stomach flip that comes from seeing the words “formal attire” printed on an invitation. First comes the excitement of having an opportunity to get dressed up. Then, the panic of not knowing exactly what is acceptable to wear.
After all, the lines can get a bit blurry, especially with all the subsects of formalwear that often get thrown around. To wit, there’s semi-formal, which is often conflated with cocktail dress codes, as well as beach formal, which is sometimes the rule for destination weddings.
Aside from weddings or the occasional gala, however, there are many reasons why one would need formal attire in their arsenal. After all, we’re in the age of the opulent birthday, the glamorous holiday, and the niche-themed soiree—some of which will require a more polished dress code. To make deciphering all these invites a little easier, here’s what to know about formal attire.
What is formal attire, exactly?
To keep things simple, “formal attire” is generally reserved for evening events. It is considered slightly less elevated than black tie and the more rare, ‘white tie’ requirements–unless noted otherwise by the host of the event, of course. (Usually the exact requirements for black or white tie are explicitly stated on the invite or save the date.)
That said, formal attire does require a certain reverence and gravitas. “It is truly a way of showing respect for celebratory or historic occasions such as weddings, confirmations, funerals, state dinners, academic, and diplomatic affairs,” notes Amanda Jane Valentine, a luxury fashion consultant who has dressed celebrities like Lady Gaga, Kendall Jenner, and Hailey Bieber. “We are all aware that how we dress communicates volumes before we open our mouths or as soon as we enter a room. Formal attire amplifies this assumption and reveals social hierarchy, awareness, and class.”
Do’s and don’ts of formal attire for women
At a base level, this means women should opt for dresses that fall well below the knee; in some cases a floor or ankle-length option are most appropriate. If a free-flowing frock isn’t your thing, a sharply-tailored suit has proved to be a great options for both men and women–think of the posh Dior tuxedo that Sarah Jessica Parker’s character Carrie Bradshaw wore in the opening scenes of the second Sex and the City movie, with platform stilettos nonetheless. A jumpsuit with capped sleeves or thick shoulder straps, as well as full ball skirts a lá Kendall Jenner at the Met Gala, are also suitable alternatives.
Unless you’re attending a beach ceremony, it’s best to steer clear of fabrics like cotton-poplin or gauzy linen, as it has a casualness about it that will appear out of place in more traditional settings. In its place, consider more stately materials like tulle or duchess satin and crepe de chine. Embellishments aren’t necessarily a stipulation but are encouraged if you want to stand out. Sequin beads and delicate embroidery are some of the most common adornments–though feathers and fil-coupe are thrown in the mix from time to time, as well.
While elegance is a hallmark of formal attire, Tbilisi-born designer David Koma notes that this doesn’t mean you can’t express your personality within the dress code. “While traditional notions of elegance and sophistication remain timeless, there has been a noticeable shift towards more diverse and inclusive representations of beauty and femininity,” he explains. “Designers are increasingly embracing innovative techniques and diverse perspectives to meet the evolving needs.”
As mentioned, attention to detail is important when it comes to formal wear—and that includes grooming and accessories. Ideally, “every stitch, every seam, and every embellishment is meticulously considered to ensure that each garment exudes a sense of sophistication and refinement while instilling confidence and empowerment in the wearer,” Koma explains.
When it comes to outfit accompaniments, clutch bags—which are meant to fit comfortably under your arm as your schmooze, while still offering just enough space for your evening essentials—are usually the norm. Think: Judith Lieber for kitschy, Swarovski statement clutches in novelty designs and Nina, who has been making collections of formal-friendly bags and shoes from luxe looking materials like satin since 1953. However, a small top-handled bag is also acceptable as long is it matches the degree of elegance required.
In terms of footwear, stilettos are an obvious choice, though you shouldn’t immediately write off a short kitten heel and the wearability it offers–especially when dancing is imminent. Flats are totally acceptable, as long as they are in good shape and exude a certain polish and elegance. Remember, “it s not a matter of ‘looking nice;’ it s a matter of communicating status, respect, and occasion,” says business style coach Nikki Venus.
If you’re still unsure about your options, it’s totally fine to reach out to the host—in fact, experts recommend you do. “Its not uncommon for a host to have a theme for the event and a range of interpretations to dress codes, so reaching out to confirm what you’re considering is highly encouraged,” Valentine says. “It’s a great way to reduce the risk of an embarrassing realization of being under- or over-dressed.”
Do’s and Dont’s of Formal Attire for Men
For men, the rules of formal attire are sometimes easier to interpret, as they’ve been in place for quite some time. “The protocol for men’s traditional formal wear in the western world has mostly remained unchanged since the early 20th century,” Valentine says.
Formal attire for men usually means a tuxedo (especially in the case of “black tie optional” invites) or a dinner suit in navy, charcoal, or black. A cumberbund or vest (as in, a “three-piece suit”) are not required but welcome. Regardless, the suit or tuxedo should be the same color top-to-bottom, and should be paired with a crisp white button-down and dress shoes. Cufflinks are also optional and a belt should not be worn.
Semi-formal attire for women
All this begs the question: what is “semi-formal attire,” then? In short, “it’s a notch down from black tie, but still classy,” says Venus, who notes it s usually “ideal” for cocktail parties, some weddings, or networking events.
Though it’s always best to check with the host when in doubt, usually a semi-formal event suggests that a cocktail dress, a tailored jumpsuit, or elegant separates are acceptable. “The hemlines here are usually midi-length between cocktail and tea-length, which means above the ankle and below the knee,” Valentine explains, adding that the “dressy-casual” silhouettes required for a semi-formal occasion are the perfect excuse to wear “interesting shoes that won’t be hidden under a floor length gown.”
Semi-formal attire for men
For men, a dark suit is the most elevated semi-formal option, though a tie isn’t required. Either way, dress trousers—not jeans—should be worn. Other options include a smoking jacket, blazer, loafers, and accessories like a pocket square.
The one must? A button-up shirt. “It helps balance between the casual and formal requirement,” says Valentine, who says it’s fine to have fun with color: “Semi-formal is usually during the day so lighter colors and pastels can be an easy choice.” She also recommends linen and cotton for summer events and flannel and velvet for the winter.
The history of formal attire
Speaking of long-standing rules, the history of formal attire is long and rich. According to Jovani, it is also riddled with aristocratic and military-inspired details: “These two sources have shaped the way formal wear is designed and worn today, from the fabrics used to the silhouettes and colors. Traditional elements of formal wear have been adapted to fit modern trends, creating a timeless look.” Its earliest beginnings can be traced back to 19th Century Europe and America with origins linked to one George Bryan “Beau” Brummell–who Gentleman’s Gazette calls the first ever menswear influencer. A dandy by trade, he’s revered for his friendship with George Prince of Wales and innovative style that we now acknowledge as formal wear.
The upper class began sporting this more elevated attire for evening events–this included dark colors like the more traditional shades of black and blue. Men were wearing corsets and short dresses with skinny trousers underneath–most women wore the latter, too. Over time, as the concept of formal wear evolved so did the pieces themselves. The almost theatrical approach, complete with powder white wigs, opulent outerwear and hosiery, eventually turned into double-breasted coats, and trousers with stripes. Style in the 1920s further solidified this subtle shift towards simplicity. Hemlines continued to rise, with the start of World War I and the women’s suffrage movement.
By World War II formal attire looked completely different than it had during the Regency Era nearly a century before. Famed designers like Coco Chanel and revolutionized formal clothing with inventions like the ‘little black dress’ and Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ era. Then, thanks to the boom in the ready-to-wear market and department stores, evening wear was becoming more affordable which meant it was no longer reserved for the rich. This accessibility aided in the development of dress codes as a social norm, particularly as it pertains to the special occasions on our calendars. Most interestingly, though, is the ways in which formal attire has adapted to fit the needs of society at the time.
One thing that hasn’t changed over the years? Showing reverence for the occasion—and, the host—with your clothes. “It’s quite typical that the host of a formal event wants to be the best dressed, so make sure you confirm your selection accordingly,” says Valentine. “It’s a delicate balance to dress appropriately to a formal event, but the thought put into it is quite literally a way of showing respect and enthusiasm to the host who is planning and coordinating the event.”
