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If I were to ever go on University Challenge, I’d choose two specialist subjects: moisturizing and facial hair removal. I was blessed with the sort of hair that grows in all places at all times, and learning how to best remove facial hair quickly and effectively has become my life’s work. From bracing myself to pull off wax strips to dabbling in laser hair removal to trying to avoid inhaling the fumes of powerful hair removal creams, rare is the hair removal method I haven’t experimented with.
All of this experience means I know the best method for you will depend on many factors: Your threshold for pain, whether you’d prefer to do it yourself or see a professional, how quickly your hair grows back, and the sensitivity (or not) of your skin. Here’s a breakdown of the best way to remove unwanted hair, directly from the experts.
One caveat before we dive in: whether you choose to keep or remove facial hair is a personal preference. This is for people who are looking for advice on removing it in a skin-safe way.
What’s the best method to remove facial hair?
One of the quickest ways to remove facial hair, waxing can leave skin noticeably smoother and hair-free for anywhere between two and four weeks. At home, wax strips are the most common way to remove facial hair, while in a salon, hot wax is more likely to be used.
“In addition to hair removal, waxing also gently exfoliates the skin by removing dead skin cells,” Monica Ella Botros, managing director at Strip Hair Removal Experts, tells Vogue. “However, facial skin is significantly more delicate and sensitive than the skin on the rest of the body, so it does require extra care.”
One concern about facial waxing is that some people experience bumps and small breakouts afterwards, something Botros says is avoidable with the right after-care routine. “Breakouts and bumps happen when bacteria enter the freshly ‘opened’ pores (the removal of the hair follicle leaves an opening in the skin),” she explains.
“For the first 12 to 24 hours, you must avoid using any perfumed products on the treated area, as well as refraining from hot baths, showers, sunbathing, sun beds, swimming and strenuous exercise.” Steam, sweat, and SPF are all things that can trigger post-wax irritation. This also applies to strong topical treatments, like retinol, potent exfoliators and peels.
- Quick
- Cost-effective
- Easy to do at home
- Extended hair-free period
- Depending on your pain threshold, it can hurt
- Possibility of post-wax breakouts
- Can increase the likelihood of ingrown hairs
- Can cause irritation in sensitive skin types
Threading involves taking a carefully twisted piece of cotton thread and using the tension to hold and pull on unwanted hairs.
“Threading is an ancient method of hair removal that’s been practised for centuries, with roots tracing back to India,” Jaimineey Patel, head of treatments and VIP at Blink Brow Bar, explains. “A cotton thread is used to glide across the skin, removing excess hair while it does so. Not only that, but the thread grabs and teases out every single hair by its root, leaving a cleaner finish and long-lasting results.”
For best results, there are some pre- and post-care rituals Patel recommends. To begin with, a thorough cleansing of the skin before threading is crucial. While a threading therapist can remove make-up at your appointment, going in with no brow or complexion make-up on your forehead can help minimize the chances of irritation.
After your appointment, keep the area clean, avoid touching it and use aloe vera or a cold compress if irritation occurs. “It’s very important to avoid fragranced products and makeup after a threading appointment, as they can clog the pores,” Patel points out. Another thing she suggests is gently exfoliating the area you’re going to have threaded about two to three days before. This can help you to avoid ingrown hairs.
- Precise hair removal
- Traditional method of hair removal
- No “nicks” caused by other methods
- No harsh chemicals used
- Expert skill is required and usually needs to be performed by a professional
- Can cause breakouts and bumps in sensitive skin types
Technically a type of physical exfoliation, dermaplaning involves using a very sharp blade to remove dead skin cells, as well as those fine hairs that are sometimes known as peach fuzz. “In the clinic, dermaplaning is done by an expert, using a sterile, surgical-grade scalpel,” says Dr. Ellie Rashid, a GetHarley consultant dermatologist. “The blade is held at a precise angle and glides lightly over the skin for controlled exfoliation.”
Think of it like gently removing the very top layer of skin. In that layer is the accumulation of dead skin cells, including excess sebum and sweat, as well as the fine hairs that appear right on the surface of the epidermis. “Doing this clears away dull skin and improves product absorption,” Rashid explains. It makes sense. Without the tough barrier, products can sink into smooth, hair-free skin and make-up glides on much more smoothly.
However, when done incorrectly, dermaplaning can prompt a whole host of issues, from inflammation and breakouts to aggravated eczema, fungal infections, acne flare-ups and more. “With poor technique, dermaplaning can irritate,” Rashid warns, “due to the little nicks in the skin caused by the blade.” If you use active ingredients such as retinol, retinal, or tretinoin (all derivatives of vitamin A), your skin can be particularly sensitive to it, too.
On social media, you’ll see a plethora of positive at-home dermaplaning testimonies. However, the risk-to-reward ratio is too high for us to recommend trying it. For those who would still press ahead, remember that sterilization is of the utmost importance. A dirty blade can cause both immediate and long-term issues. After that, keeping your skin clean, calm and hydrated will be the number one priority, which includes avoiding all active ingredients for at least 48 hours.
- Painless hair removal method
- Ultra-smooth skin afterwards
- Better skincare absorption
- A smoother base for make-up
- Reveals brighter skin beneath
- Poor technique can lead to irritation
- Thorough sterilisation needed
- Can damage the skin barrier
- Can lead to bacterial infections
- Can trigger breakouts and flare-ups of chronic skin conditions like acne, eczema, psoriasis and rosacea
Hair removal creams are a painless, easy way to remove facial hair at home. “These creams use ingredients that break down keratin, the protein that makes up hair,” Rashid explains. “This softens the hair, which means it can be wiped away. However, the hair grows back quickly because the root stays intact.”
Usually, a hair removal cream is designed to be left on for anywhere between three and 10 minutes. Any longer than recommended and you can risk an allergic reaction or burning sensation as the skin becomes more sensitized. “The downside of hair removal creams is that they can cause irritation if overused or left on too long,” Rashid cautions. “Some people get redness, stinging or itchy, and many of these creams have a noticeable chemical smell. Also, the results don’t last long, so the process does need to be repeated regularly.”
One thing she says is a non-negotiable for people with sensitive skin is a patch test. “Some formulas are made for sensitive skin and contain soothing ingredients. Even with these, though, reactions are still possible. Try and ensure you perform a patch test 24 hours beforehand.”
- Painless facial hair removal method
- Quick
- Easy to do at home
- Suitable for sensitive skin in the right formula
- Doesn’t damage the skin barrier
- No risk of cuts, nicks, or grazes
- Irritation if used in the wrong way
- Not suitable for people with eczema, rosacea, or very dry or compromised skin
- Not suitable for people using retinoids or powerful exfoliating acids like AHAs
- Hair grows back quickly, often within a week or two
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