After winning Woolmark’s Karl Lagerfeld Prize for Innovation in May, A. Roege Hove’s Amalie Røge Hove is focusing on experimentation. She has predominantly used cotton and nylon for her stretchy knitwear in the past, but in a preview this season she said, “I’ve been trying to open up a bit in terms of new materials. When we test different yarns and different techniques, that’s where we find something interesting.”
Alongside the wool that was introduced last season, she added Circulose—a material made from 100% textile waste—rendered into a gridded crop top, an off-the-shoulder dress, and a pleated midi skirt. Texture also came via a hairy scallop-knit dress and miniskirt, which offered a pleasing contrast to the sheer ribbed pieces for which she’s known.
While a number of Røge Hove’s signature transparent looks turned up again this season (including several encrusted with silver beads, in a nod to a new jewellery collaboration with Danish brand Georg Jensen), the styling worked best when it illustrated how the clothes can be worn day-to-day. Despite the extremely wet weather in Copenhagen, showgoers arrived layered up in the designer’s pieces—a strength of the brand that could be highlighted more on the runway.
The most successful looks were less overtly sexy: a black turtleneck top paired with a striped bubble-hem skirt, and a slinky halterneck teamed with a baby-pink pencil skirt. As A. Roege Hove continues to evolve (both technically and aesthetically), it’s a more feminine side of the brand that the designer should lean into.
