Riding an Old-World Train Through Ireland With Chef Clodagh McKenna
My favorite way to see a new city is in the midst of the morning bustle, and Dublin is no exception. I arrive at 4:30 a.m. local time to two Irish blessings—bottomless tea and a warm fire—waiting for me in the elegant lobby of The Westbury Hotel. Sinking into one of their warm couches, I take this time to get acquainted with the train tracks ahead while waiting for daylight.
I’m here for a long weekend aboard Belmond’s Grand Hibernian with the beloved Irish chef Clodagh McKenna. Starting the trip with extra time in Dublin is a bonus, and one that I embrace whole-heartedly on my first day in Ireland. I catch the sunrise over the city’s famous River Liffey with bleary eyes before zigzagging to Bread 41, and I snag a prime seat for people-watching before the breakfast crowd rolls in. Spiced sausage wrapped in decadent pastry dough is a magical combination; as with every outstanding dish I have in Ireland, it elevates something simple into finger-licking goodness worthy of booking another trip on the spot.
Wandering back to the hotel through Dublin’s creative district leaves me wondering how many new purchases I can squeeze into my suitcase. The stunning Powerscourt Centre, one of the city’s grandest Georgian homes, anchors the local artisan community with 40 shops and stalls. Nearby, within The Westbury’s own gallery, the beautiful STABLE of Ireland and Madigan Cashmere wrap guests in handmade Irish linen and cashmere, respectively.
My extra day also coincides with the recent opening of MoLI or The Museum of Literature Ireland. A collaboration between the National Library of Ireland and University College Dublin, the museum is a poetic ode to Ireland’s literary past, present and future. The changing exhibits feature current writers as well as famous literary forefathers while making an effort to reach for gender parity. Wedged between St. Stephen’s Square and the Iveagh Gardens, the breathtaking former university building also includes its own secret garden and a lovely café, The Commons, which is ideal for a spot of lunch. If you see a blue sky outside, take a meal out onto their patio.
With a short stack of books under my arm from the museum shop, I’m ready to ride into the Irish landscape under the exuberant guidance of chef Clodagh McKenna. Upon entering the train station to board The Grand Hibernian, we’re welcomed with the resonant boom of Irish drummers before sitting down in the dining car for our first meal.
Clodagh’s community in Ireland stretches as wide and long as The Emerald Isle, and her friends’ bounty finds their way to our plates over the next two days. Having helped spark Ireland’s Slow Food movement, Clodagh’s career is intrinsically linked to the rising tide of makers, growers, farmers, and artisans who have revived Irish cuisine.
She’s sourced the ingredients for each meal from businesses within a stone’s throw of the land and sea we’re passing through or heading toward—a feat of logistical wonder. After relishing fresh lobster salad, I walk back to see my sleeper carriage.
Slate walls framed with elegant molding and Celtic knots, alongside plush bedding and Irish wool blankets, wrap me in comfort as the surrounding countryside slides by under a sheet of rain. With two catty corner beds, a desk, a side table, and an armoire flush against the train car—plus a well-equipped bathroom—I have everything I need, even in such petite quarters.
