How This Brooklyn Artist Gets Dressed to Go Mushroom Foraging

Image may contain Human Person Sunglasses Accessories Accessory Clothing Sleeve Apparel Electronics and Monitor
With a block of reishi mushrooms at the Smallhold farm, where Ma was first inspired to start her project. The jumpsuit is Lazy Oaf, and the shades are custom Moscot (Ma used to work there as a window dresser).Photo: Courtesy of Sam Bruchez

All products featured on Vogue are independently selected by our editors. However, we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links.

Artist Phyllis Ma has spent the last year helping mushrooms find their light. After foraging them or sourcing species grown by the urban farm Smallhold, she carefully transports the fungi to her workspace, where she arranges and photographs them on bright backdrops alongside bodega flowers, fruits, and colorful powders (matcha, turmeric). The result—a set of brilliant, characterful still lifes—is packaged in zines entitled Mushrooms Friends, the second of which launched with a party at the Brooklyn meadery Honey’s on Friday.

The cover of Mushrooms  Friends 2
The cover of Mushrooms Friends 2Photo: Courtesy of Phyllis Ma

Ma came across her fungal muse while searching for a sustainability-focused project last summer. A friend connected her to Smallhold, and during a visit to the farm, she was enchanted by the visual of mushrooms growing under purple lights. She’s since made mushrooms a focus of her travels, foraging in the Swiss mountains and Berlin’s Grunewald Forest and on the Oregon coast. “It really puts a new spin on rainy days for me,” she notes of mushroom hunting. “It’s optimistic for me now, because I’m like, Ooh, I wonder what’s growing.”

Some of the zine’s featured specimens were found closer to Ma’s Ridgewood home, in Brooklyn’s Green-Wood cemetery. Her hope is that when people discover her photographs they will “see that you don’t have to be a mycologist to appreciate mushrooms. We can learn so much from mushrooms, just the way they collaborate with trees and other plants.” Her portfolio is a mesmerizing introduction to a kingdom whose great potential is only now going mainstream, as the ecological and psychological benefits are being reconsidered through new applications and studies.

Ma’s environmental interest extends to her closet, where most of her wardrobe is vintage or homemade. A stint at fashion school taught her how to design a few key pieces, and now she aims to make at least half of her clothes. Her photographic aesthetic is reflected in the vibrancy of her everyday outfits—and, of course, her shock of Sonic the Hedgehog–hued hair, which she dyed after a breakup. Here, Ma shares a few of her favorite ensembles during a creative day in New York City.

Image may contain Building Architecture Urban Car Automobile Vehicle Transportation Clothing Apparel Town and City
Ma often shops when she travels. “It feels nicer that way, because it’s like a souvenir.” Here, she poses at her day job, where she does freelance creative work for a streetwear brand. The sweatshirt is from Tokyo brand Cavempt, while the pants are M.Y.O.B.Photo: Courtesy of Sam Bruchez
Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Sweater, Sweatshirt, Sleeve, Long Sleeve, and Blouse

Cavempt Disappearance crewneck

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Pants, Denim, and Jeans

M.Y.O.B NYC two-tone patchwork gauze pants

Image may contain: Handbag, Accessories, Accessory, Bag, and Purse

Off-White diagonal-stripe mini flap bag

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Shoe, Footwear, and Sneaker

Vans authentic platform shoes

Image may contain Human Person Clothing and Apparel
Ma, seen here exploring in Red Hook, started dyeing her hair blue a year ago. Before that it was pink. “I feel like changing your hair is probably the fastest way to make yourself feel better [after a breakup]. I was like, This is the new me.” For color, she goes to Three Degrees Salon in the East Village.
Image may contain: Military, Military Uniform, Camouflage, Clothing, Apparel, Sleeve, and Long Sleeve

Lazy Oaf Lazy Flowers jacket

Image may contain: Sunglasses, Accessories, and Accessory

Moscot Miltzen sunglasses

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Sleeve, and Long Sleeve

Online Ceramics Mushroom Mandala Spiral shirt

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Pants, Denim, and Jeans

7 for All Mankind Alexa high-waist jeans

Image may contain Human Person Finger Animal Reptile and Snake
Ma with mushrooms in Green-Wood cemetery, with an apropos manicure she did herself. Photo: Courtesy of Sam Bruchez
Image may contain Clothing Apparel Human Person Shorts and Coat
Wearing Camper shoes, handmade pants, and a Freitag bag (“They make really cool backpacks from truck tarps.”)Photo: Courtesy of Sam Bruchez
Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Coat, Raincoat, Sweater, Hoodie, and Sweatshirt

Hunter original waterproof yellow jacket

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Pants, Denim, Jeans, and Rug

See by Chloe mid-rise leopard-print jeans

Image may contain: Diaper, Backpack, and Bag

Freitag R522 Tschingel backpack

Image may contain: Shoe, Clothing, Footwear, Apparel, Suede, and Sneaker

Camper Runner-up sneakers