This spring’s New York Bridal Fashion Week brought a host of new wedding dress trends to the fore, from layered lace to basque waists to bows. But arguably the most surprising silhouette that emerged as a major trend? The bubble skirt.
Brides-to-be who lived through the early aughts may understandably shudder at the thought. Back then, the voluminous hemline made a not-so-stylish stamp on our collective memories—mostly in the form of colorful micro-minis that we can probably now agree were a bit of an eyesore. Seeing this unique shape crafted into luxurious gowns, however, provided an entirely new perspective on the style. The volume and curve can lend a dress a sense of drama that feels at once modern and classic, harkening back to when the trend first bubbled up in the ’50s.
“The bubble hem feels like the perfect mix of classic femininity and modern playfulness,” shares designer Marmar Halim, who created multiple gowns this season that experimented with the shape. “It evokes a sense of nostalgia but still feels fresh and unexpected—exactly the balance I wanted to strike with this collection.” The shape is a perfect fit for brides who might want a dramatic moment on their wedding day that feels slightly unexpected, instead of a traditional, petticoat-filled gown. “I love how the dress doesn’t flare out at the bottom but instead folds into itself—it gives the piece a more sophisticated shape; almost organic, like a mushroom,” notes Dana Harel. “It’s slightly reminiscent of Dior’s New Look, Comme des Garçons, and Vivienne Westwood in the ’90s—something that sits on the line between elegance and edge.”
The bubble skirt can be found in many forms as a bridal look, as evidenced by recent collections. Kyha Scott presented two skirt separates that give brides options to play with at her brand s runway show in the Guggenheim Museum. “There’s Collins, a trumpet bubble skirt that contours and celebrates the female form. Then there’s Opal, a transformative maxi that shifts from full length to midi with internal cords, and offers an effortless versatility as a strapless dress,” says Scott. “One silhouette, multiple statements.”
Harel embraced more of a fit-and-flare take on the bubble skirt for her spring collection. “I enjoy designing dresses that are intentionally exaggerated—tightly fitted to the body in certain places, while fearlessly floating away from it in others,” she says, noting her inspiration came from swans and ballet. “I tried to capture that moment when a swan’s wing opens, or when a ballerina’s skirt flares—suddenly, like a fountain bursting from the center of the dress. Of course, this required complex internal structures, but it was very important to me that the final look felt completely natural, almost inevitable from the outside.”
Designer Meredith Stoecklein of Lein even flipped the script for her latest bridal launch with a bubble neckline dress in both white and black—a nod to the traditional wedding dress color before the Victorian era. “The fabric for our Simone Gown is a plaster-like matte duchesse that needed a beautiful drape. The story is in the gathered neckline that sits off-body, giving the illusion of structure and the comfort of a column,” explains Stoecklein. “There’s an ease to wearing this dress. She looks beautiful from every angle.”
The construction of a bubble gown also provides a unique form for designers to play with. “It requires precise internal shaping to create that controlled volume,” notes Halim. “It’s not just about aesthetics, but about engineering softness and movement, which is something I find really exciting as a designer.” Stocklein adds, “There is actually a lot of thought that goes into the construction of our bubble detailing, from testing different crinoline and tulle weights and ruching measurements to not only hold the gathering to stand off-body, but to make the bubble detail look as natural as possible.”
Plus, there’s an innate sense of lightness that comes from a bubble hemline—there’s a reason why it’s called a bubble, after all. “I think there’s something so gorgeous about a circular design—where does the gown begin and where does it end? I love the mystery in that, the way the fabric wraps fluidly around the body, creating an almost sculptural, endless form,” shares Katherine Tash. For her most recent collection, the designer created a gown featuring two tiers of bubble hems. “I am always inspired by the idea of movement and softness, contrasted with structure. The bubble hem felt like a natural extension of that concept, creating a silhouette that feels ethereal, yet grounded in structure.” Thankfully, those looking to evoke that whimsical quality are set to find plenty to choose from within the spring 2026 collections—coming to a bridal salon near you.
