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Maria Grazia Chiuri offered “an invitation to use fashion to be yourself” at today’s Dior FW25 runway collection of detachable frilly “Orlando ruffs” (inspired by the eponymous character of Virginia Woolf’s novel), tailcoats, veiled berets and baroque pearls for “celebration of a femininity that imagines possible futures.” The “be yourself” memo made its way directly to the beauty team: “We opted for a pure but strong look,” Peter Philips told Vogue of wanting to “to glorify each model s individual beauty” for one of the most cinematic presentations of Grazia Chiuri’s tenure at the house.
Inside the Jardin des Tuileries and in time to Robert Wilson’s choreography, models walked beneath a prehistoric flying bird and enormous boulders descended from the ceiling, over hot lava projected onto the ground, and around icebergs emerging from the floor. “The lightning in Bob Wilson’s scénographie enhanced the strength of each girl’s features,” said Philips, the creative and image director of Christian Dior makeup, of being inspired to keep things clean with a reverse eyeliner trick for moody drama. “I gently groomed the eyebrows and added deep black khôl liner in the inner corner of the eyes to create depth and intensity,” said Philips of softening what he dreamed up for the house’s Couture show a few weeks ago by gently shaping arches (not spiking this time) with Diorshow On Set Brow and flicking inky Diorshow On Stage Crayon in 099 Black into the crevice where a tear would fall.
Philips kept models strictly “in their purest form, just luminous skin without highlights or contouring, no added colors or sparkles—just luminous skin” with Forever Skin Perfect foundation stick and Forever Skin Correct concealer. It didn’t need more when “the styling, collars, neckpieces, and Guido’s hair literally framed the faces, showing their strong purity.”
Hairstylist Guido Palau noted that he wanted to create “a feminine softness with tendrils around the hair and neck line” as he designed a “very boyish” sleek, side-parted ponytail that was sprayed down with Zara Hair Spray and Zara Shine Mist before lengths were tucked (Olsen style) into collars. “The hair look is a balance between masculine and feminine,” he said of his vision, reflected in the collection’s tailoring and tulle—Grazia Chiuri’s signatures, reborn, yet again.
