Shaving, waxing, tweezing, and lasers are all great options for those looking to remove unwanted body hair. But one of the few caveats to these treatments is that most of them require tiresome (and oftentimes expensive) upkeep. For a longer-lasting solution, there’s one method you can’t really beat: electrolysis hair removal.
Touted as the premier permanent solution for getting hair-free skin, electrolysis hair removal is the ideal treatment for those wanting to be rid of razors and recurring wax appointments. But just how permanent is it? Can a hair removal method truly be a one-and-done treatment to get you silky smooth skin forever? To answer that—and more—we turned to the experts.
Here, they break down everything you need to know about electrolysis hair removal. From what to expect in a treatment to how it stacks up against other forms of hair removal, this guide has all your questions answered.
What Is Electrolysis Hair Removal?
According to Brian Abittan, MD, director of skin and hair rejuvenation and director of hair transplantation at Mount Sinai Health System, electrolysis is used to destroy the hair follicle and stop hair growth completely. Abittan goes on to explain that there are multiple different types of electrolysis that either use chemicals or radio frequency to remove hair, but it is a procedure that can be done on anyone, regardless of skin type, and can even be used to target very light or gray hair.
Ellen Marmur, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of MMSkincare, says you can get this treatment done on most areas of the body, including your back, bikini line, lip, chin, eyebrows, thighs, lower legs, breasts, abdomen, fingers and toes, and underarms. The cost of a single session can also vary. Marmur says you can expect to pay anywhere from $50 to $250, depending on where you get the treatment done and how much hair you’re wanting to remove.
The Benefits
The benefits of electrolysis hair removal are many. Marmur lists the following as some of the pros to consider:
- Can be used for any skin type or skin tone
- Can remove ingrown hairs
- Is a permanent solution, which can make it more cost-effective (in the long run)
- Has skin-care benefits such as reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, pore size, and acne scarring, and can boost your skin’s overall radiance.
- Is less expensive compared to non-permanent removal methods.
Electrolysis hair removal is also the only permanent hair removal treatment that is approved by the U.S. Food Drug Administration, she says, and is a non-invasive procedure that requires little to no downtime.
The Downsides
There are two major downsides to this treatment: It’s a long process and it can hurt—a lot. According to Regine J. Matthieu, MD, a California-based board-certified dermatologist and Skin of Color Society member, a tiny wire is inserted into each hair follicle opening so that heat or some sort of chemical energy can destroy it. Though pain is dependent on the person, you will experience discomfort regardless. “Imagine tiny pricks of heat going into each individual hair follicle in the area to be treated,” says Matthieu. “That’s a long period of time for anyone to experience that level of discomfort.”
For what side effects one might face, Marmur says there could be risk of infection, scarring, or discoloration if tools aren’t sterile and if not done properly by a trained professional, but these instances are rare. She also advises that those with diabetes, heart conditions, pacemakers, or a history of seizures avoid this treatment.
How It Works
Prior to getting this treatment done, Marmur recommends prepping your skin and making sure it’s hydrated. “Hydration allows you to see better results,” she says. To do that, she says to drink lots of water and avoid dehydrating foods and drinks such as chocolate, caffeine, and alcohol 24 hours before. And, of course, avoid shaving the area you want to treat.
Once you’re with your technician, Shereene Idriss, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Idriss skin care, explains that a probe will be inserted into the natural opening of each hair follicle, without puncturing the skin. An electric current is then applied to the probe and moves down the wire to the bottom of the follicle to destroy the root. Idriss says the type of current used depends on the method, but to expect a galvanic, a.k.a. direct current (DC), that causes a chemical reaction, a thermolysis, a.k.a. alternating current (AC), that generates heat, or a combination of both to move down the wire to the bottom of the follicle and destroy the root. The existing hair will fall out or is gently removed with tweezers. She says that if the follicle has been adequately treated, the hair should slide out easily and the damage done to the follicle will prevent hair from growing.
This process can take from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on the density and size of hair and how large of an area you want to be treated. Matthieu adds that electrolysis is advertised as a “one and done” treatment, but that is not the case. She says maintenance is required for all types of hair removal. For this, you do have to go in for multiple treatment sessions to get it done, and it can take up to a year and a half to permanently remove hair.
“Multiple treatments are required because all of our hair exists in three different [growth cycle] phases,” Matthieu explains. “The growth (anagen) phase is the phase that is targeted by hair removal techniques, [but] the dormant or resting (telogen) phase and the shedding (catagen) phase are not affected. So any form of hair treatment requires multiple treatments to target hair in the growing phase.”
Who Can Perform Electrolysis Hair Removal
You can’t just go to any skin or hair removal expert to get this procedure done. All experts agree that you should seek someone trained and certified in electrolysis to get the best results. “It is critical to have this procedure done by someone who has experience and is well-trained,” says Abittan. “The efficacy of the treatments is improved by finding a provider that is skilled in this technique.”
Post-Care
Downtime is minimal and your post-care, as Marmur says it, “quite laid back.” You can resume most day-to-today activities, but she recommends avoiding things like tanning or anything that will have you under the sun for about 24 hours your treatment. You’ll want to also avoid applying makeup, picking or screeching, or doing any movement that may cause sweating as you might end up with irritation. Idriss adds you’ll want to avoid harsh ingredients on the treated area, such as retinol or any exfoliants.
To reduce inflammation and swelling, Marmur says you can use an antibiotic cream or apply a cold compress. She also recommends something like the MMSkincare Revive Serum, which contains nourishing ingredients such as aloe that you can use pre- and post-treatment.
Electrolysis vs. Laser
While electrolysis hair removal is a more permanent solution that aims to destroy hair follicles, Idriss explains that laser hair removal, on the other hand, uses concentrated light to target the pigment in hair follicles and damage them to reduce or prevent hair growth.
Matthieu adds that most derms would recommend laser over electrolysis hair removal for a number of different reasons. “While electrolysis has its place in effectively treating light-colored hair such as unwanted gray or blonde hairs, the pain associated with the procedure and the time it takes to complete sessions may not be worth it for larger areas,” she says. “Laser hair removal is an effective method of hair removal. Compared to electrolysis, with laser hair removal many areas can be treated relatively quickly in one session, discomfort is minimal, and the average downtime is not as long.”
“Electrolysis is extremely time-consuming and may not be suitable for everyone,” says Idriss. “Each hair follicle is treated individually which makes the process lengthy and the total cost can be high due to the number of sessions needed. The process can also be uncomfortable for some.”
It all comes down to personal preference and your pain tolerance. But if a permanent solution to hair removal has piqued your interest, just be sure to go to a reputable place with a licensed professional. When dealing with any treatment that promises permanent results, better to be safe than sorry.
