For years, skin boosters were out of reach for those of us in the United States. Patients would come back from their European and Asian vacays asking—sometimes begging—their dermatologists for these injectable moisturizers that they’ve heard would transform their skin. Then, in May 2023, the US Food Drug Administration approved Skinvive, an injectable hyaluronic acid, and introduced a new category that changed the aesthetic treatment game here Stateside.
But what makes skin boosters different from the others? Hitting that sweet spot of smoothing out skin texture and boosting hydration without altering skin or looking too noticeable, Daniel Belkin, MD, board-certified dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group says they are aptly named and meant to give your skin a bit of a boost. “[They’re] like the cherry on top,” Dr. Belkin says. See exactly how below.
What are skin boosters?
Nkem Ugonabo, MD, a New York City–based board-certified dermatologist and Skin of Color Society leader, says that skin boosters are gel-like substances that are injected just below the surface of the skin in the upper dermis (a.k.a. the very superficial layers of the skin). These injectables, Dr. Ugonabo explains, aim to improve hydration and smooth out uneven texture, with some patients even experiencing a boost in their natural radiance.
Skin boosters are usually made of small diluted hyaluronic acid (HA) molecules, which Suzan Obagi, MD, chief medical director at Obagi Medical and associate professor of dermatology and plastic surgery at the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center, says attracts and binds water when injected superficially into the skin. “This increases skin hydration from the inside out,” Dr. Obagi says. “This is in contrast to the improvement in facial volume and contour seen when larger molecule-sized HA fillers are injected into the deep tissues and on the bone.”
How do skin boosters work?
Dr. Belkin explains that skin boosters generally don’t stay in place where you inject them, to give your skin a more moisturized look all over. If a skin booster is pure HA, like the popular Profhilo, which has dominated European markets but has yet to be approved in the US, it is un-cross-linked and free to move past the points of injection. “You’re basically just hydrating the dermis with an injection that has now spread all through the dermis like moisturizer,” he says.
With something like Skinvive, he likens it to a super soft filler that is cross-linked, which means it stays put for the most part where you inject it and lasts a lot longer. “You need more injections and have to sprinkle the injections all around the face. You put it right in the dermis and it’s so soft that it really is just made for sort of a dermal plumping,” he says. “It does act a little bit more like a filler than a true skin booster.”
The main benefits of skin boosters are increased skin hydration and radiance. As an added bonus, Dr. Obagi says that studies have shown that after injection, the HA molecules may stimulate an increase in elastin and collagen production. This further enhances the skin’s firmness and elasticity, improving the appearance of skin laxity and fine lines. “Most of the improvement seen early on after treatment is related to the increased skin hydration giving the skin a bit more turgor and glow,” she adds.
Is skin booster better than filler or microneedling?
Skin boosters, fillers, microneedling, and other aesthetic treatments all serve different purposes. So the best one for you depends on what your skin goals are. Dr. Obagi explains that, because skin boosters work in the upper dermis, it can only enhance your skin’s texture and moisture levels, and they cannot lift cheeks or plump lips. Fillers, by contrast, are designed to go beneath the skin’s dermis to add volume and lift sagging skin. Dr. Belkin agrees and says the skin boosters aren’t really meant to be super-targeted and solve a particular skin concern.
“If you’re young and you don’t have much that you need, or you’re not seeing signs of aging, but you just want a little dewiness and glow, you could come in just for a skin booster,” he says.
Microneedling involves micro-injuries to the skin for added collagen and elastin production. Dr. Obagi explains that tiny holes are punctured into the skin to stimulate collagen and elastin production as the skin heals. She wouldn’t recommend pairing any form of microneedling with skin boosters, as the microneedling techniques may cause you to lose any of the skin booster benefits. She also wouldn’t recommend pairing a skin booster with ablative fractionated lasers or medium-depth peels, as those too will interfere with the HA that’s been injected.
How long do skin booster results last?
Experts say that skin boosters can last up to six months. Dr. Belkin adds that he wouldn’t recommend doing something like Skinvive often because it does act as a soft filler and stays in place, getting too much of it may cause you to look over-filled.
What is the treatment like?
Skin booster injections are a pretty straightforward treatment. After consulting with your physician, Dr. Ugonabo says that skin is first cleansed before a topical anesthetic cream is applied to the treatment area. Then your practitioner will perform tiny injections in a uniform pattern, depositing the HA in the dermis. Total treatment time can take anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes, she says. Dr. Obagi adds that you can inject a skin booster on your face, neck, décolletage, and back of the hands.
Aftercare
You can expect some swelling and redness post-treatment, but Dr. Obagi says that it should resolve itself after a day or two. If bruising does occur, it may take over a week to go away. She recommends avoiding excessive exercise or being under any excessive heat, and keeping skin dry until the next day. But you should be good to go about your usual routine and skin-care regimen the next day.
How much does a skin booster cost?
The price of skin boosters will vary depending on how much you get and where you decide to get a treatment done. According to Allē, the rewards program created by Allergan Cosmetics, Skinvive can range anywhere from $650 to $750.
What are the risks of skin boosters?
Similar to other injectables, experts say that there is always a risk of bruising, redness, swelling, or an allergic reaction with skin boosters. Dr. Ugonabo wouldn’t recommend them for those who are allergic to hyaluronic acid, pregnant, or immunocompromised. If you’re prone to bruising or severe scarring, she says to consult with your physician before booking an appointment.
Dr. Obagi agrees and emphasizes that you should only look to injectables that have been approved by the FDA; she points to reported cases of bumps, lumps, and inflammation that form after getting a skin booster that has not been tested for safety. Pre-treatment, you’ll want to avoid taking blood thinning medications and supplements to lower the risk of bruising. And as always, be sure to go to a certified and licensed professional who has experience injecting skin boosters. This will limit any possible downsides.
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