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Aging is an inevitable process, right? It’s long been thought of as slow, steady, and linear—but research suggests it happens in bursts. At least two. So if you’ve ever felt like you’ve gained a few new creases or wrinkles seemingly overnight, experienced a hangover much, much worse than your last, or your knees are suddenly more achy and rickety, you could be riding one of these dramatic, accelerated spikes. How we age, and how it impacts our bodies, is getting a total rethink.
In 2024, scientists at Stanford University and Nanyang Technological University in Singapore published their findings in Nature Aging. Here, they outlined the data gleaned from 108 participants between the ages of 25 and 75, who they followed over several years to closely observe aging on a molecular level. (RNA, proteins, and their microbiomes). They anecdotally reported on things like hangovers and muscle injuries, and had blood and stool samples tested, as well as skin, oral and nasal swabs between one and seven years.
The majority of 135,000 molecules and microbes tested highlighted that the biggest transformations happened to people in their mid-40s and early 60s. The first wave saw changes to cardiovascular health and an impact on metabolizing caffeine, alcohol, and lipids. The second arc of change impacted kidney function, carbohydrate metabolism, and immune regulation. During both spikes, skin and muscle aging accelerated.
Dr. Shereene Idriss, a board-certified dermatologist who runs the seriously good weekly YouTube series “Pillow Talk Derm,” used this research as a jumping off point for her latest instalment. This week, she went deep on the aging peaks and how it impacts your face—as well as what you can do to address aging and slow its telltale signs down. And while she agrees with the research, from her own practice, Dr. Idriss proposes there’s at least four of these aging peaks, including in your late twenties to early thirties, and another in your late thirties.
“The fact is if we’re not aging, we’re dead,” she says frankly. “The goal is to age the best that you can, not just physically but mentally. And the physical does affect the psyche.” So, what aging looks like on the face: it’s loss of elasticity, lines and wrinkles, and jowling.
As noted by Dr. Idriss, another indisputable part of the aging process starts as early as your twenties; collagen production naturally begins to decrease around the age of 25, typically by about 1% per year, contributing to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. “We’re much more attuned to our faces and people are noticing them more,” she says—it’s a culture thing, where the Instagram feed, front-facing camera, and the celebrity news cycle have us examining our faces in ways we’ve never done before. But still, Dr. Idriss has noticed a “subtle shift” in faces. Over the course of six months, there’s a “flatness” that happens. Faces get narrower and longer. According to the derm, that’s happening because of slight “volume shrinkage” on the outer aspect of our faces that shifts things in your face. Can it be prevented? Not hugely, but you can address the more overarching aging shift; Dr. Idriss advises that you stick to a healthy diet, and try not to fluctuate in weight. Yo-yoing can accentuate those facial shifts. Collagen powders won’t make an impact either, she belives, because you can’t spot target like that.
Topical vitamin A-based drugs—AKA retinoids—have been proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen. “Your later self will thank you,” Dr. Idriss says of retinol usage in your twenties. In the derm office, light microneedling can make a difference too—although not with a lot of radio frequency or heat, as Dr. Idriss advises, which could “melt” the fat or tissue in your face that gives your skin elasticity and that plump appearance.
The second peak in your late thirties, as Dr. Idriss says, can be reflected in jowling (sagging skin) around the face over the course of a month. Smile lines can become more prominent. Having a good derm, here, can be important. No cream is going to restore volume—different treatments like PRF (Platelet-Rich Fibrin, derived from your body’s blood) or PRP therapies to stimulate your own tissue would be advisable. It can strengthen your tissue, and can slow down the deepening of smile lines. Dr. Idriss says she’s noticed it’s helped her own under eyes. Filler, when used strategically and done correctly, could also be considered. While fillers won’t lift your face, it can be used to fill in the details on your face to create balance and make jowls less prominent. Dr. Idriss also advises ultrasound treatments around this time, which would help to tighten skin over time.
The third peak, around age 44, sees more jowling, as well as eyes becoming more hooded, under eye bags worsening, lips getting thinner, and skin with a crepey texture. Dr. Idriss advises continuing with the previous suggestions and staying consistent—just consider taking things up a notch. Incorporate microneedling and radio frequency more regularly into your routine. You could also consider topical polynucleotides for hydration—while salmon sperm isn’t yet legal to inject in the U.S., when it’s applied topically with microneedling, Dr. Idriss says she’s seen it make a real difference with patients. Light filler and botox twice a year can also be considered. But don’t get overstimulated with all these options—choose a path! Address what you notice first and stay focused.
The fourth peak is in your sixties, and it’s here that Dr. Idriss gets frank: “A little bit won’t go a long way anymore,” she says. You might, she says, want to consider a procedure that involves cutting out excess skin, like a platysmaplasty. But Dr. Idriss doesn’t recommend facelifts for anyone over 70—if you are considering a facelift across your life, she says the optimum time to pursue one would be in your late 40s to 50s. Dr. Idriss says at this fourth stage, you want to manage expectations.
Check out more of Dr. Idriss’s series of derm secrets on her YouTube channel—and remember to consult your own derm and doctor before making any decisions or experimenting.
