Gareth Pugh: Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

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And I wanted to use something that was

quite technical

Looked like an eyeliner that looked like it was hovering

in a phantasmagorical way.

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[Tim Blanks] I ve always thought of Gareth Pugh

as the dark prince of fashion,

but with this new collection I think he s got happy.

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Now, what mood were you trying to set with that film?

Gareth s, we ve been speaking for quite a while

about what the mood of the collection is

but, for me, it s sort of evolved into something else.

A girl finding power, really.

[Tim Blanks] Does this woman have a story?

[Gareth Pugh] You know that kind of painting,

that Lucas Cranach painting of Judith and Lucretia

where one, Judith has kind of, like

ripped the head of Holofernes off with a knife

and she s kind of stood there with his head

and Lucreita s just about to stab herself

in the heart because she s just been raped.

Those two opposite ideas of women

in this kind of diptych, you know, that was kind of a

very loose, kind of, narrative to the film.

She starts very small and then, and quite weak,

and then ends up a Gareth Pugh woman.

[Gareth Pugh] The cages were leather.

Very, very, very thin leather over,

kind of, a- a boning.

So it was kind of like a- an exoskeleton.

Well it was funny that he was working with grids

because I think of grids as a way of gaining control

and, er, maybe there s something in the air

about reacting to chaos, reacting to too much stimulation.

[Tim Blanks] Would you say it s

kind of about control of chaos?

It s always about control of chaos.

It s controlling the beast within.

[Tim Blanks] This collection it felt, like,

bouncy architecture.

[Daphne Guinness] It did, absolutely.

It had soft elements, it had iridescent elements,

it had, erm, it had light sort of cut-out elements

and I thought the helmets were great.

[Lesley Pugh] I liked the hats.

I thought they looked like blue flames off British Gas.

[Barbara Atkin] The black and white,

the striped looks, were spectacular.

It s always glamorous, it has a bit of a Utilitarian feel

and it s always something that you actually look at

and go that s Gareth Pugh.

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